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Should I change shims with this gap?

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Old 02-26-2003, 02:02 AM
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Default Should I change shims with this gap?

My fronts are less the .002 so DUH..
But my question is for the exhaust. LH .005 LH .006
Is it ok to have the to differances on the exhaust? or does it effect the system?
Should I just worry about the intake and leave the exhaust??
 
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Old 02-26-2003, 02:17 AM
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Default Should I change shims with this gap?

If it were mine, I would leave the exhaust and do the intakes. Check it again in 100 hours.
On the other hand, you can move the shims from one valve to another so you may be able to shuffle them around and come up with a little more clearance without buying new shims.
mine were tight on all four valves but i only bought one shim to complete the job. If I remember correctly, I ended up with 7mm on the exh and 6mm on the int. Its been a while I could be off a little.
 
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Old 02-26-2003, 02:49 PM
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Default Should I change shims with this gap?

Your in there, your buying shims, just do it all. A little loose is better than tight. Shoot for .005 to .010 and you will be fine. I am running .007-.009 on all.
 
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Old 02-26-2003, 03:10 PM
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Default Should I change shims with this gap?

really that loose??
the range is .005-.007 your saying .007 -.009 is ok?? seems amost double spec?? Remember, I still have stock cams...
and I am not a motor guy..
I was
shooting for .005-.007 on all 4.. so change all the shims Ken?
 
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Old 02-26-2003, 04:20 PM
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Default Should I change shims with this gap?

I could see .007 but if you go too much you risk tossing a shim at high RPMs.
This is not a case of "if a little is good alot must be better".
When referring to valve train wear, even though the clearance decreases most of the time, it can increase too. If you start out oversized and the gap increases you can do some damage to your cam/valve when it tosses a shim.
Not something I want to think about when I'm in the middle of nowhere
 
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Old 02-26-2003, 04:20 PM
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Default Should I change shims with this gap?

No, I was simply letting you know what I have found to work outside the specs. Using stock specs are fine, but I would rather be on the fat side of the specs. If the gap changes through riding it usually gets tighter because the valve and/or seat wear more than the shim/cam lobes. Anywhere between .004 and .008 will be no problem, and they don't have to match, example .006 on one exhaust valve and .008 on the other will not be an issue. Hope this helps.
 
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Old 02-26-2003, 04:25 PM
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Default Should I change shims with this gap?

Ok good..
So If they are between .005 & .007 I wil leave them.. I am way past my 10 hr so I think I will be fine.
Thanks much!!!
 
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Old 02-26-2003, 08:26 PM
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Default Should I change shims with this gap?

I've never had adjust the exhauast yet - they were .005 and .006 at 10 hrs., and still were after 120 hrs.
The intake on the other hand was at .002 and .003 after 50 hrs. and I adjusted them back into spec.

Shims only come in certain sizes - seems like the increment is about .0025 if memory serves me correct, may be wrong here, but anyway if a gap is .005, you can't make it .006 - going the next size shim down will put it outside the spec a little. just a little more info...
 
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Old 02-26-2003, 09:10 PM
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Default Should I change shims with this gap?

JssDS,
We must have been typing at the same time. Just an FYI. On my cam spec sheet from RWR it gives .008 Int and .010 Exh. I realize that Mudstud is using a stock cam, but with his current set-up he isn't likely to see the RPMs that I run regularly. I don't want to scare him out of doing this job himself, it's not exactly brain surgery but it can be intimidating to the first timer.

My experience with this motor is that although it is possible for the gap to widen, I have only observed the opposite. The seats are pretty soft on the Bomb and they seem to overcome lobe/stem/shim wear.

Just my 2¢
 
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