I took my air filter down to Advance autoparts and found THIS FILTER which looks like it will work. It has a 1 3/4" ID flange with a 5/8" flange (should fit well) and it's 5" (don't know if that counts the flange) and 3.5" diameter which is 1" wider than stock. The K&N part number is RU-0360 and the foam prefilter is 25-1770 which is shown HERE.

The foam prefilter (for very dusty/sandy environments) is on backorder and was about $25 or so. Get this, Advance Auto Parts has the filter on sale for $22.41+tax and mine will be here tomorrow. If you want one, you might want to see if you can get the same deal in your area.

I just figured I would give everyone a heads up, and when it gets here tomorrow I will put it on and report back.

So far, everything is going very well with the Jetmoto, and the neighbors are impressed. The kid that lives next to my parents is in an engeneering class in high school and has offered to help me take off the intake tube (between the carb and head) and the head to port and polish at his school. They have done it many times before with great sucess and his truck's head is like a freaking mirror. It's nuts to look at. It almost looks chromed. Anyway, I'm thinking about letting him do that, but I know after the air filter and P&P, I'm going to be rejetting to keep up. I can't imagine this thing with more power. I rode a wheelie up a short, steep hill here today and it almost got out of control just because the last time I climbed that hill it was on a Kazuma Falcon 110. =)

Other than the battery dieing and having to push start it in the middle of the woods (1 mile+ from the road + 2 miles from home) I'm very impressed. To everyone at Raceway/Jetmoto, IT WAS WORTH THE WAIT! I'm very happy so far!!! Push starting is very easy in reverse. Just push it back and get it going a good clip (about 2-3mph) and pop the clutch out. As soon as it turns over and starts firing, just pull the clutch in and walk around to put it in neutral. Very easy to start if you need to, but I still want a kick starter option. Time to invest in a battery! Oh yeah, I did the silicone on my headlights today and tomorrow I'm going to see how they do. I still need to hit the taillights, but they look much easier to do.

-JNY

 

You must have a defective battery; I have not had a problem at all with my 250's batteries. I charged them when I first set them up and have never had to charge or jump them again. Now I may have a defective battery with my Blue 150. Almost every time we go out it seems to be dead but after I jump it it will start the rest of the day with no problem. I am guessing John would send you out another battery? Are you sure you do not have a drain on the electrical system somewhere?

Oh Ya, do we get any setup photos?

 

It's possible that there is a problem somewhere on the electrical system, but I don't see anything problematic. When I run without the headlights, the battery stays strong enough to start, but if I run with the lights on, and it cuts off (stalls/whatever), I have to kill the headlights immediately or it won't have enough juice to crank. I used to work with a commercial electronics place, and still get a discount there so I'll pick up a SLA battery from them as a replacement. They are ELK cells, and very high quality. Typically they have a good bit more Amp/Hours in the same size cell (a 7AH is the size of thier 8AH.)

As long as it's the same or better capacity, it should have the same cranking amps, right?

-JNY

 

ww.UPDATE:

I put that K&N filter on today, but alas, it required cutting some plastic off of the body (the part that hangs down in front of the battery.) This isn't a good idea, because it acts as a support beam between the left and rear fenders.

I DO NOT RECOMMEND THIS PART NUMBER!!! Get the one that is the same size, but is 4" rather than 5" long. The length listed is actually the filter element length, so with the rubber mounting flange, it's really 5 5/8" long which does not fit. I'm going to fab a support beam to replace the plastic I cut out. I'll rivet it in, and rivet some lexan to the bottom to make a splash guard around the filter.

Also: K&N makes a filter that is in a splash cover already (aka shrouded air filter) which would be a great drop-in replacement for people who get a little bit wet. I go through standing water here (2-4" deep) and I havn't splashed the air filter yet although I go very slow.

BAD NEWS! I hope it was just a spark plug I blew today.


After installing the K&N I ran it up the road for a high speed run to check air:fuel. It looked like it was running lean (it was a little rich before the filter.) so I twisted the fuel mixture (I have some pinchers that can turn the screw [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img] ) and repeated this 3 times before I thought I had it right. It was running like a champ, and idleing well and if you spit on the engine, it didn't even bubble off. So I took it into the woods (found some new trails) and on my way back home I was in 4th gear going well over 40mph when it hesitated. I backed off the throttle and the engine just died. I can only hope there is no spark and the plug looks like the engine overheated (according to my harley ridin friend.)

What do you guys think? I don't know how far out I am on the mixture screw, but it is much further out than stock (which is about 1-1/4 turns out.) Do I need to take it to the local powersports place and let them help me get even bigger jets then the ones raceway sent? Any help would be appreciated.

It is my understanding that the mixture screw only does minor adjustments, and the jets do major adjustment. Is this wrong?

EDIT: What is a propper spark plug gap for this guy?
RE-EDIT: Apparently it's .024, but I'm not quite sure how to use a gap tool. I would assume that you want the right side to stop on .024. All the D8EA plugs I have are stopping on .026, so should I squeeze them in some? Wouldn't a larger gap require more power off the stator to spark? perhaps that was part of the problem. Oh yeah, and the ATV broke down because it ran out of gas. *blush*

I got a ATV guy in the neighborhood (I've met at least 30 people so far) and they looked at the new plug I put in and did a test run with (about 10 minutes of riding) and it was still lean, so I turned it out again. Now it's a little over 1 1/2 out, but it seems to be running good, except if you hold full throttle in neutral it will misfire, but I'm not sure if it's preignition or not. I guess I will have to watch my plug tomorrow.

Thanks guys! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
-JNY

 

Full Throttle in neutral???? EEEEEEEK!!!!!!! Sounds like maybe the valves are floating. NOT GOOD!

Kinda hard to tell the color of the plug in the picture. Should be a light brown/tan color. Looks like the porcelain around the tip is white, telling me it is too lean. Sounds like it might be time to put everything back the way it was, and start over. You DO NOT want to run it if it is too lean. Is there any chance you got some bad gas?

As far as the air filter is concerned, I use the stock filter, and I took a piece of foam air conditioner filter material and made a tube from it. I stapled it closed on 2 ends, and sealed those seams with silicone. After it dried I turned it rightside out ( the seamed areas are on the inside now) and pulled it over the stock filter. I did oil it lightly with K&N filter oil. Works great, and was cheap. I tried to oil the stock filter, and the bike would not run at all. It was fine after I washed the oil out, and dried the filter.

FYI, go to "bobistheoilguy.com and red his tests on air filters. Unless you are running full throttle consistantly, any power gains from a K&N, or foam filter isn't enough to offset the reduced filtering ability compared to a paper filter. Interesting read.

The NGK D8EA plug I put in has worked fine, MUCH better "grunt" than with the LG plug that came in it. I didn't even check the gap, so I really don't know what it is.

 

I don't let it rev all the way up in neutral, I just give it full throttle in little bursts. It will make it pretty high into the rpms before it makes the pop sound. I really don't know, so I'm taking to an aftermarket ATV place here and the mechanic there is going to help me. Oiled filters are pretty good at catching trash. I'll read that article later, but I've always known oiled foam to be better than paper. *shrug*

I plan on using an oiled over filter when it comes off backorder also. I am running full throttle most of the time I'm on the quad. The trails we have are pretty open and it's typically not wet for very long after a rain. I may decide to change to a different K&N filter that comes with a plastic shroud to protect it from splashes. I was looking for more airflow, but not at the expense of anything important.

The thing about the plug is that the center of the plug (the white element, ceramic?) was tanned, but the metal threads were black, so I wasn't really sure what the problem could have been. I put a new plug in and it still wouldn't start, so I checked the gas and although I could see gas, it was low. I filled it up and she started right up.

Hopefully I'll figure this all out this afternoon.

EDIT: I took it to the ATV shop. I was just worrying about something that wasn't a problem. The ATV is fine. We pulled the plug and they said it was actually a little rich (little bit of black over the entire plug) so I should come down a little on the fuel screw.

Over-active, over-worried, under-educated imagination was the culprit!

-JNY