Chinese Electrical Issues
#11
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Tracy, California, USA
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One thing I forgot:
Don't buy a new remote key fob yet. If you want your current remote module to be out of the picture just unplug it. Now it is out of the picture.
But be aware that this does add one new little feature to your quad:
You can no longer shut off the quad with the ignition switch. You'll have to use the handlebar kill switch instead. This new feature can be fixed by identifying two wires on the remote module connector and shorting them together, but this is minor and can be put off till later after the quad is running (and charging the battery properly)...
Don't buy a new remote key fob yet. If you want your current remote module to be out of the picture just unplug it. Now it is out of the picture.
But be aware that this does add one new little feature to your quad:
You can no longer shut off the quad with the ignition switch. You'll have to use the handlebar kill switch instead. This new feature can be fixed by identifying two wires on the remote module connector and shorting them together, but this is minor and can be put off till later after the quad is running (and charging the battery properly)...
#12
#14
Join Date: Dec 2008
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Hugemoth is exactly right. Remove the kill wire as he suggested and see if you get spark.
Just making sure: When you're checking for spark you're holding the connected up spark plug mounting threads up against the engine block while cranking, right? You need that ground return path to see spark across the plug gap.
Also keep in mind that if you reinstall the spark plug and try (and succeed) to start up the quad, and with the kill switch wire at the CDI disconnected, you won't be able to shut off the quad by any normal means. Worse, that kill switch pin on the CDI will have high voltage on it (100 volts or more depending on engine speed), so if you try to plug the kill switch wire back in to stop the quad you need to do this with insulated pliers. There isn't a lot of current available from this pin - after all you short this to ground to kill the spark - but it is enough voltage and current to knock you on your butt, so be careful .
Just making sure: When you're checking for spark you're holding the connected up spark plug mounting threads up against the engine block while cranking, right? You need that ground return path to see spark across the plug gap.
Also keep in mind that if you reinstall the spark plug and try (and succeed) to start up the quad, and with the kill switch wire at the CDI disconnected, you won't be able to shut off the quad by any normal means. Worse, that kill switch pin on the CDI will have high voltage on it (100 volts or more depending on engine speed), so if you try to plug the kill switch wire back in to stop the quad you need to do this with insulated pliers. There isn't a lot of current available from this pin - after all you short this to ground to kill the spark - but it is enough voltage and current to knock you on your butt, so be careful .
#15
Alright, my bad, I guess I'm an idiot, I didn't know you had to ground the plug out. So after doing so it does spark.
Basically everything is turning over but it just doesn't fire up, doesn't even sound like it's trying. There's no petcock so I know that's not the issue at least! Just cranks and cranks.
Basically everything is turning over but it just doesn't fire up, doesn't even sound like it's trying. There's no petcock so I know that's not the issue at least! Just cranks and cranks.
#16
Alright, my bad, I guess I'm an idiot, I didn't know you had to ground the plug out. So after doing so it does spark.
Basically everything is turning over but it just doesn't fire up, doesn't even sound like it's trying. There's no petcock so I know that's not the issue at least! Just cranks and cranks.
Basically everything is turning over but it just doesn't fire up, doesn't even sound like it's trying. There's no petcock so I know that's not the issue at least! Just cranks and cranks.
If you don't get anything, time to check compression. You can get them cheap at Harbor Freight. I believe you'll need at least 80 pounds for it to fire up.
#17
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Tracy, California, USA
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This is a good sign as you got spark. All you need now is fuel. You can spray starting fluid in the intake and see if it runs. I normally remove the spark plug, shoot some ether down there or you could pour a very small amount of fuel in there as well. Install plug back and try again.
If you don't get anything, time to check compression. You can get them cheap at Harbor Freight. I believe you'll need at least 80 pounds for it to fire up.
If you don't get anything, time to check compression. You can get them cheap at Harbor Freight. I believe you'll need at least 80 pounds for it to fire up.
I second everything MPDano said.
One more thing: How new is this quad? Have the valves ever been adjusted? One these engine the valve clearances are tighter when the engine is cold, plus as the engine wears the valve clearances get tighter still (especially during the first few dozen hours of operation). Often the end result is a quad that runs perfectly fine when warmed up, but gets progressively harder to start when cold. Eventually it won't start at all when cold.
The problem is that valves that are too tight don't close fully and prevent starting when cold. But if you ever do manage to get it going the clearance problem goes away immediately and the quad runs great - until the quad cools all the way down again.
#18
Ok, thanks everyone so far, extremely helpful!
So I finally had some time to work on it again, did the starter fluid method and got it to fire up. Ran like junk for a bit and couldn't get it to idle, but I kept firing it up and finally it broke itself in and stayed idling. Has new oil, new plug and new air filter. Burned dirty at first but turned clean after warming up.
I found that if I tried to plug the brake light back in it killed the engine, so I assume there must be a short there. I disconnected final connection and tested and it pops up with -1 on the meter, so not sure what that means?
I checked the battery after running for about 8 minutes and it was reading 13.5v, but I hooked up to the charger again anyway. I'll try it again after it cools to see if it starts or if it's going to be an ongoing problem.
As far as the valve timing, I can pretty much say for certain that the previous owner wouldn't have done that, so it may be something I need to take on if this is to start easily in the future. Not sure the procedure on that but I'm assuming its a pain in the butt...
Thanks again to everyone, I'll update again later.
So I finally had some time to work on it again, did the starter fluid method and got it to fire up. Ran like junk for a bit and couldn't get it to idle, but I kept firing it up and finally it broke itself in and stayed idling. Has new oil, new plug and new air filter. Burned dirty at first but turned clean after warming up.
I found that if I tried to plug the brake light back in it killed the engine, so I assume there must be a short there. I disconnected final connection and tested and it pops up with -1 on the meter, so not sure what that means?
I checked the battery after running for about 8 minutes and it was reading 13.5v, but I hooked up to the charger again anyway. I'll try it again after it cools to see if it starts or if it's going to be an ongoing problem.
As far as the valve timing, I can pretty much say for certain that the previous owner wouldn't have done that, so it may be something I need to take on if this is to start easily in the future. Not sure the procedure on that but I'm assuming its a pain in the butt...
Thanks again to everyone, I'll update again later.
#19
Ok, thanks everyone so far, extremely helpful!
So I finally had some time to work on it again, did the starter fluid method and got it to fire up. Ran like junk for a bit and couldn't get it to idle, but I kept firing it up and finally it broke itself in and stayed idling. Has new oil, new plug and new air filter. Burned dirty at first but turned clean after warming up.
I found that if I tried to plug the brake light back in it killed the engine, so I assume there must be a short there. I disconnected final connection and tested and it pops up with -1 on the meter, so not sure what that means?
I checked the battery after running for about 8 minutes and it was reading 13.5v, but I hooked up to the charger again anyway. I'll try it again after it cools to see if it starts or if it's going to be an ongoing problem.
As far as the valve timing, I can pretty much say for certain that the previous owner wouldn't have done that, so it may be something I need to take on if this is to start easily in the future. Not sure the procedure on that but I'm assuming its a pain in the butt...
Thanks again to everyone, I'll update again later.
So I finally had some time to work on it again, did the starter fluid method and got it to fire up. Ran like junk for a bit and couldn't get it to idle, but I kept firing it up and finally it broke itself in and stayed idling. Has new oil, new plug and new air filter. Burned dirty at first but turned clean after warming up.
I found that if I tried to plug the brake light back in it killed the engine, so I assume there must be a short there. I disconnected final connection and tested and it pops up with -1 on the meter, so not sure what that means?
I checked the battery after running for about 8 minutes and it was reading 13.5v, but I hooked up to the charger again anyway. I'll try it again after it cools to see if it starts or if it's going to be an ongoing problem.
As far as the valve timing, I can pretty much say for certain that the previous owner wouldn't have done that, so it may be something I need to take on if this is to start easily in the future. Not sure the procedure on that but I'm assuming its a pain in the butt...
Thanks again to everyone, I'll update again later.
#20
No Power to the system
I have a Chinese 200cc atv that want start. Except to the starter solenoid there is no system power anywhere. Solenoid shortrd cranks the starter but no start. Just incase you are thinking... New key switch, new CDI, new coil. No lights anywhere. No plug spark. Drove to 7/11 at night with lights. Started again at 7/11, came home parked it.... Next day this. I have tried everything you guys have suggested here but nothing is working. The only thing I can think of is that black box "Thingy" that looks like a CDI but has 8 wires going into it. Batt has 12.7 volts. Drops to 11v while cranking. Its nearly new. I am stumped about the no power anywhere except the starter circuit. Have unplug and checked every connection I can find. Used ohm meter for checking the kill switch and the brake safety switch. Could it be the "Thingy" black box?
Thanks for any ideas, you guys are smarter than me on the stuff.
David in Thailand.
Thanks for any ideas, you guys are smarter than me on the stuff.
David in Thailand.