Light bar install/key and shutoff don’t work
#1
Hello all, I know I listed what are most likely two separate issues in the title but I’m hoping they go hand in hand.
my son has. KD-110-GKG-2 Kandi Kart. The cheap front headlights have long not worked and one actually had the leads to the light clipped off. As with most I’ve opted for a light bar install vs twin lights up front. I would think closing the positive loop between the old front lights and grounding the bar would give me light. I couldn’t be more wrong and at this point I find myself asking a question that you can’t find an answer to anywhere. Does the factory wiring include a relay/switch that can even handle a light bar or should I just grab a pre fab at harbor freight? Even then I can’t Make heads or tales of where to grab what wire to splice from. On a scale of 1-10 with vehicular wiring knowledge im about a 3-4. But once it’s explained (in Lehman’s terms) I can follow the bouncing ball well.
Oh yeah. Could the kart ignition/kill switch not working be due to the cut headlight wire leaving an open circuit by chance?
my son has. KD-110-GKG-2 Kandi Kart. The cheap front headlights have long not worked and one actually had the leads to the light clipped off. As with most I’ve opted for a light bar install vs twin lights up front. I would think closing the positive loop between the old front lights and grounding the bar would give me light. I couldn’t be more wrong and at this point I find myself asking a question that you can’t find an answer to anywhere. Does the factory wiring include a relay/switch that can even handle a light bar or should I just grab a pre fab at harbor freight? Even then I can’t Make heads or tales of where to grab what wire to splice from. On a scale of 1-10 with vehicular wiring knowledge im about a 3-4. But once it’s explained (in Lehman’s terms) I can follow the bouncing ball well.
Oh yeah. Could the kart ignition/kill switch not working be due to the cut headlight wire leaving an open circuit by chance?
#2
"Could the kart ignition/kill switch not working be due to the cut headlight wire leaving an open circuit by chance"
No, but the ignition switch not working could stop the lights working as, if the lights are DC, positive goes from battery, through fuse, to ignition switch, then on to light switch and starter circuit. If lights are AC however, power goes from alternator, direct to light switch and on to lights. LEDs wouldn't like being fed unregulated AC but would probably light with engine running.
As for power requirements, no idea what your headlamp bulbs are but 21w bulbs pull about 2amps, so 4amps for the two bulbs, two 36w bulbs pull 6amps. So if the ampage requirement of your light bar is higher than that of the two bulbs you are replacing, you could overload the existing light circuit. This is where you would start needing relays, or a completely separate circuit for the new lights. If existing lights are AC, you will need a separate circuit from battery or ignition switch for the light bar anyway.
No, but the ignition switch not working could stop the lights working as, if the lights are DC, positive goes from battery, through fuse, to ignition switch, then on to light switch and starter circuit. If lights are AC however, power goes from alternator, direct to light switch and on to lights. LEDs wouldn't like being fed unregulated AC but would probably light with engine running.
As for power requirements, no idea what your headlamp bulbs are but 21w bulbs pull about 2amps, so 4amps for the two bulbs, two 36w bulbs pull 6amps. So if the ampage requirement of your light bar is higher than that of the two bulbs you are replacing, you could overload the existing light circuit. This is where you would start needing relays, or a completely separate circuit for the new lights. If existing lights are AC, you will need a separate circuit from battery or ignition switch for the light bar anyway.
#3
I took the easy way since I’m def not an expert. I purchased the wire harness for the light bar I installed. All good there. But how does the shut off feature stop working when it worked for years?
#4
On AC CDIs, the kill wire earths out the CDI. So check at the CDI if the kill wire (usually black/white) is earthed with switches in stop position, then check with them in the run position. Most are earth to kill, some are earth to run. If the kill wire is OK there must be an internal fault in the CDI.
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