Hi guys,
I need some help figuring out what is happening with my ATV and charging circuit.
The battery keeps draining while driving and I don't have charging voltage on the positive and negative terminals to the battery.

I replaced the voltage regulator/rectifier and I am reading the 13,8 V on the rectifier output which is good but I am not seeing that voltage on the battery.
Weird thing is that I disconnected the terminals from the battery to check the voltage while ATV is running and it is only reading 5 volts.

I am not sure how it can be only 5 volts on the positive and negative going to the battery.

I would really appreciate youyr help to figure out what to test next ??

ATV Linhai 260 cc water-cooled engine.

 

Disconnect the battery and charge the it up using a charger. After charging, leave for a day and see if it still has over 12v in it before refitting it to the bike. If it hasn't you need a new battery. If it is OK, all switches off, fit one terminal, then check for an ampage between other terminal and it's battery post before fitting it. If there is more than a milliamp or two, there is a current leak, most likely from voltage reg.

 

Thanks for input, I charge it in house every time and it lasts for a day or two driving in atv, and I checked the amperage on the negative lead while everything is off, its showing 0.20 amp , that is to much leakage right?

 

Yes, disconnect voltage reg and see if current leakage has gone away.

Also, as I wrote above, see if the battery keeps it's charge when fully charged but disconnected from bike for a day or two.

 

Little update on this, after checking many things, I disassembled the stator and magneto.

The magnet is broken in several pieces all over the rotor, I am not even sure how it worked in the first place.
I ordered new stator, rotor and pickup coil so now I am waiting for the parts.
The small filter inside the stator cover was full of metal and magnet parts, but it looks like that saved the engine, parts of magnet were holding metal scrap together.

 

I will need some clarification from you guys about 6 pin CDI.
I am waiting to receive the new stator coil which has 3 PIN connector (Yellow wires going to the voltage regulator) and an additional yellow wire which goes to the carburetor electric choke.
I ordered the 18 pole stator for my engine 172mm.

But I noticed that on the old stator, I had an extra wire ( black-purple coloring) that is going to the 6th pin. on the CDI ( that should be a power pin from the stator)??.

My question is how can I power the CDI now with the new stator, can I jump-wire it on from one of the yellow wires??

 

You would have been better to have started a new post. However, any AC CDI set up I have come across has a separate coil for powering the CDI on the stator (one or two Hondas tap off an alternator yellow but have a pos from battery to CDI as well, so goodness knows if they are AC, DC or both). I guess jumping a yellow could be worth trying, but personally I would be thinking about fitting a DC set up instead. There are several different types so it may be as simple as getting a six pin DC CDI and running the black/red to the ignition pos, but that requires you to know the pin out for the new CDI and the old CDI are the same, except for where the black/red power comes from. Four pin CDIs are more basic, again you need to know which pin does what and run wires to it accordingly. Any non standard CDI may have a different advance curve, so performance could be affected.

 

Thank you @merryman it looks like you're the most active member here on the forum .

I took out the complete wiring from the ATV to inspect the bad connections and to change what is needed.
My current CDI is 6 Pin module, 4 wires are coming to the CDI = Pick up coil, Spark ignition, Ground and Power for the CDI, so it looks simple.
If I find it difficult to power up the CDI from the new stator, I will buy the DC CDI and try it.
DC CDI is powered from the battery directly ??

 

As someone else on here has just found, for DC they usually feed pos from ignition switch, then through a kill switch, to CDI so if either ignition is tuned off or kill switch, the engine stops.

 

The charging issue is finally solved. I had to replace the magneto which was broken in small parts, some pieces of magnets fell off and were stuck in the oil filter.
The stator was also faulty, I replaced it with a new one and also changed the AC CDI to DC CDI, and powered it from the ignition switch.

Finally, I have above 13.5 V on battery while running.