GY6 150CC - Starter bad?
#1
GY6 150CC - Starter bad?
Hey guys. Lots of awesome members here, hoping for a confirmation input from someone in here.
So I got a kazuma falcon 150cc. It has been starting before, until a few days ago. Now as of now: It only clicks from starter solenoid. I have tried 2 solenoids, nothing changed. Got 2 batteries, even 1 new, nothing changed (over 12.8V and batteries are good). Now I recently changed wire going from start motor to solenoid as it was twisted and bad. Ran fine a few days and now the engine won't even crank. Recently it cranked a few seconds, and now nothing. Jumping solenoid just to test gave me 1 spark, and then nothing more. I get 12.9V to both solenoid, and starter motor. Starter also spins freely when removed. However when turning by hand you hear like it scratches from the inside turnin, relatively hard to turn too manually. My guess is a bad start motor as it even has had some oil spots too which is a bad sign as I am aware.
Does anyone got any input, or would it most likely be the starter? Huge thanks in advance
So I got a kazuma falcon 150cc. It has been starting before, until a few days ago. Now as of now: It only clicks from starter solenoid. I have tried 2 solenoids, nothing changed. Got 2 batteries, even 1 new, nothing changed (over 12.8V and batteries are good). Now I recently changed wire going from start motor to solenoid as it was twisted and bad. Ran fine a few days and now the engine won't even crank. Recently it cranked a few seconds, and now nothing. Jumping solenoid just to test gave me 1 spark, and then nothing more. I get 12.9V to both solenoid, and starter motor. Starter also spins freely when removed. However when turning by hand you hear like it scratches from the inside turnin, relatively hard to turn too manually. My guess is a bad start motor as it even has had some oil spots too which is a bad sign as I am aware.
Does anyone got any input, or would it most likely be the starter? Huge thanks in advance
#2
Right, this is the upteenth time I have written this on here. To check if it is the starter or solenoid at fault, get a 12v incandescent test light. Connect it between the starter motor pos post and earth to engine. Switch on, press start button. If solenoid clicks once and starter does not turn, but lamp burns nice and bright, faulty starter, almost always worn brushes, easily checked if you open it up. If solenoid clicks but light does not come on, faulty solenoid or bad earth, to check if it is a bad earth, move earth wire on lamp to battery neg post and try again. If lamp then lights when start button is pressed, bad earth on engine. If solenoid buzzes and/or lamp fades, starter has shorted out or seized, or battery is flat or faulty.
#3
Right, this is the upteenth time I have written this on here. To check if it is the starter or solenoid at fault, get a 12v incandescent test light. Connect it between the starter motor pos post and earth to engine. Switch on, press start button. If solenoid clicks once and starter does not turn, but lamp burns nice and bright, faulty starter, almost always worn brushes, easily checked if you open it up. If solenoid clicks but light does not come on, faulty solenoid or bad earth, to check if it is a bad earth, move earth wire on lamp to battery neg post and try again. If lamp then lights when start button is pressed, bad earth on engine. If solenoid buzzes and/or lamp fades, starter has shorted out or seized, or battery is flat or faulty.
Thanks for a good answer. Sorry you had to write it again, but I did check up a lot. Just interesting with some input. As the atv dont even got lights or dashboard too. Also live on a small island... so Can't buy things easily always.
Now I know starter and solenoid got 12.9V and cables are good, and battery and solenoids too. So definitely starter. I took it apart, and upper brush was as far in as you can see on the picture, but when loosened it, it would go as far out as the brush under.
Ngl the connection didnt seem good too (picture), So new starter is ordered, hoping for the best since last time it cranked 2 sec, and I heard a "Grrr" sound and never any crank again. And as you mention about the brushes it seems so imo. Huge thanks for your comment, and Ill know in a week.
#4
"upper brush was as far in as you can see on the picture, but when loosened it, it would go as far out as the brush under."
Not certain, but if you mean the upper brush was stuck and has now freed off, you should find it will now work OK. They are not supposed to get moisture inside, if they do, it rusts the brush holders and makes the brushes stick. It is quite common, particularly on machines that have not been used for a while.
Not certain, but if you mean the upper brush was stuck and has now freed off, you should find it will now work OK. They are not supposed to get moisture inside, if they do, it rusts the brush holders and makes the brushes stick. It is quite common, particularly on machines that have not been used for a while.
#5
"upper brush was as far in as you can see on the picture, but when loosened it, it would go as far out as the brush under."
Not certain, but if you mean the upper brush was stuck and has now freed off, you should find it will now work OK. They are not supposed to get moisture inside, if they do, it rusts the brush holders and makes the brushes stick. It is quite common, particularly on machines that have not been used for a while.
Not certain, but if you mean the upper brush was stuck and has now freed off, you should find it will now work OK. They are not supposed to get moisture inside, if they do, it rusts the brush holders and makes the brushes stick. It is quite common, particularly on machines that have not been used for a while.
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