Camber Adjustment
#1
I just put a set of wider a-arms on my 250r. With both ball joints all the way in, the top of the tires lean out. I have the lower ball joint out all the way, so the nut will still go on it, but the top of the wheels are even with the bottom. I would like to have a little more tilt. What does the wheel tilt affect? Will it hurt anything with
the wheels striaght up and down? I had '87 upper a-arms on it so I had the ability to adjust the top of the wheels in a little. Any help would be great. Thanks! JD250R
the wheels striaght up and down? I had '87 upper a-arms on it so I had the ability to adjust the top of the wheels in a little. Any help would be great. Thanks! JD250R
#2
Camber and Caster adjustments effect traction and tire wear primarily. Usually on a race bike or race truck for example. While looking at the front of the vehicle you'll see the bottom of the tires squatted out. What this does is, as your entering a turn the geometry of the suspension and tires change. So basically they are squatted out while going straight but during a turn you are utilizing the full traction capability of the tire (by the entire width of the tire now touching the ground). With this adjustment set so the tires are straight you should notice a handling difference (worse) on moderate to high-speed turns. Also keep in mind, the heavier the rider changes the geometry as well. Also, on harder packed surfaces or even concrete or asphalt you’ll really see tire wear on the outside edges.
Hope this helps!
Hope this helps!
#3
Kawasaki is correct, during hard cornering, the tires should be straight up and down for full contact patch (check out an Indy car sometime especially on a road course)
I believe 4 degrees is close to optimal. The company you purchased the a-arms from should be able to give you a starting point for the settings.
I believe 4 degrees is close to optimal. The company you purchased the a-arms from should be able to give you a starting point for the settings.
#6
Trigonometry anyone? Seriously, without taking it to the dealer for precise adjustment...A good rule of thumb for me has been using coins. The difference between the top and bottom of the tire should be between the same as the diameter of a nickel or quarter (depending on driver weight).
You'll want to have someone try to adjust it while you sit on the bike (or have someone close to your weight on the bike while adjusting it).
Set the quad on a hard flat surface (concrete or ashphalt driveway) hold a level next to the tire then use a tape measure to measure the distance between the level (which should be flush to bottom of the tire and flat with the cement) and the top of the tire.
You'll want to have someone try to adjust it while you sit on the bike (or have someone close to your weight on the bike while adjusting it).
Set the quad on a hard flat surface (concrete or ashphalt driveway) hold a level next to the tire then use a tape measure to measure the distance between the level (which should be flush to bottom of the tire and flat with the cement) and the top of the tire.
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