what kind of motor oil do you use?
#1
I just bought a 3 hondas -- recon 250, TRX500fm 4x4, Rincon 680. The owners manual calls for 10w40 Honda oil. It needs to be JASO T 903 MA oil. What the hell is that?
I use Mobil1 synthetic in my cars. Can I use regular 10w40 synthetic in the ATVs?
I use Mobil1 synthetic in my cars. Can I use regular 10w40 synthetic in the ATVs?
#3
Read this first: http://www.thumperfaq.com/oil.htm
Car/diesel oils contain friction modifiers that can make a quad/motorcycle wet clutch slip! You want a motorcycle specific oil that is API SG/JASO MA. The SG insures that it has at least a minimal amount of high pressure/anti-scuff addititves, and the MA insures that it does not contain friction modifiers that will make your clutch slip.
Beyond that, the synthetics have many properties that make them superior to plain old petroleum oil, and the ester synthetics are superior in many ways to the other two types of synthetics (group III and PAO), but it is expensive.
I have run nothing but Maxima Extra, ester based 100% synthetic in everything for many years now....my engines last forever and a day! ~$8 a liter. (A liter is bigger than a quart.)
If I had to work on the cheap, I would run Maxima Premium, which I can find for $4 a liter. Maxima has the best additive package in the industry!
I no longer use Honda oils since they are now API SJ and not SG.
Car/diesel oils contain friction modifiers that can make a quad/motorcycle wet clutch slip! You want a motorcycle specific oil that is API SG/JASO MA. The SG insures that it has at least a minimal amount of high pressure/anti-scuff addititves, and the MA insures that it does not contain friction modifiers that will make your clutch slip.
Beyond that, the synthetics have many properties that make them superior to plain old petroleum oil, and the ester synthetics are superior in many ways to the other two types of synthetics (group III and PAO), but it is expensive.
I have run nothing but Maxima Extra, ester based 100% synthetic in everything for many years now....my engines last forever and a day! ~$8 a liter. (A liter is bigger than a quart.)
If I had to work on the cheap, I would run Maxima Premium, which I can find for $4 a liter. Maxima has the best additive package in the industry!
I no longer use Honda oils since they are now API SJ and not SG.
#4
More good oil info: http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0308_oil/
Got to say that I am not intimately familiar with the Rincon, so I am not sure what all is compatible with its torque converter automatic transmission???
As for running Mobil 1, get the motorcycle version which I think they now call "Racing" (????). Use to be called MX4T as I recall. It is a PAO and I would personally rather run an ester, but it is excellent oil.
Got to say that I am not intimately familiar with the Rincon, so I am not sure what all is compatible with its torque converter automatic transmission???
As for running Mobil 1, get the motorcycle version which I think they now call "Racing" (????). Use to be called MX4T as I recall. It is a PAO and I would personally rather run an ester, but it is excellent oil.
#5
There are 3 different types of synthetics...something most people do not realize: http://www.maximausa.com/techn...enews/LubeNews2002.pdf
#7
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#8
I've been running regular 10w-40 in my quad for years without problems. I just rescenty fixed all of the oil leaks, so prior to that having to add oil every ride would have killed me at like 7 bucks a quart. Now with the leaks are fixed, if I ever change my clutch or get engine work done I plan to run full synthetic motorcycle oil.
#9
<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>I plan to run full synthetic motorcycle oil. </end quote></div>
Good move,
Nobody will stand on the side of dinosaur petroleum oil vs full sythetic without looking like a fool.
Good move,
Nobody will stand on the side of dinosaur petroleum oil vs full sythetic without looking like a fool.


