How to setup your Suspension!
Feb 9, 2000 | 08:50 PM
#1
Thread Starter
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Range Rover
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 144
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3 simple adjustments for faster; safer riding
If you only ride in a straight line over perfectly flat terrain, your suspension doesn't matter too much, but ATVs were designed for much more than that. Even if you only race up and down the hills, your suspension may be bouncing you around in the whoops and preventing your Atv from hooking up.
Whenever you get big air, you will also eventually get big ground. If you want to land and live to tell the tale, you need to know about preload, compression and rebound.
High-performance and sport quads have one, two or (usually) three adjustments. Once you learn what each controls, you are well on your way to a better ride. Read on and learn how easy it is to set up your own suspension.
· Preload:
When you adjust the preload, you are adjusting the length of the shock spring to suit your body weight or the load you will be carrying on your ATV.
· Compression:
When you adjust the compression, you are adjusting how easily or quickly the shock compresses when you hit a bump or land from a jump.
· Rebound:
When you adjust the rebound, you adjust how quickly the shock returns to its full extension after you hit a bump or land from a jump.
When dialing in your suspension, make only one change at a time. This will allow you to get a better feel for the effect each change is making. Start with preload, then set compression and rebound.
PRELOAD
At the top or bottom of your shock spring, you will find a large spanner (nut) that controls the length of the spring. The more you compress the spring with the spanner, the less the ATV will sag when you sit on it. To measure this setting, you will need the help of a friend.
1. Pick up the rear of the ATV so the rear wheels are off the ground. On utility quads, you can put a jack under the rear rack.
2. Have your friend measure the distance from the top center of the rear axle to any point directly above it on the frame of tne ATV. Write down that measurernent.
3. Put the quad back on the ground and, with your riding gear on and your tires properly inflated, sit forward on the seat with your feet on the pegs. Have your friend measure the distance again and determine the difference between the two. The difference is called ride height sag. (If you have racks and usually ride with them loaded with over 25 pounds, take your measurements with them loaded).
4. Adjust your preload so that the sag is 30% - 36% of your total rear suspension travel, as stated in the specs for your machine. Aggressive racers should set closer to 30%. If you are riding with a heavier aftermarket swingarm and axle, your preload should be a little stiffer.
5. Ride height sag on front shocks should be about 15% (racers) to 25% (trailriders) of the front suspension travel. For 150-pound riders, this would probably be the middle position. For 190-pound riders, you would typically set at the stiffest. Sag on ATV front forks should be about 15% of the front suspension travel.
COMPRESSION
Compression damping determines how easily and quickly the suspension compresses when you hit a bump or land from a lump. In order to properly set compression, ride the machine with this setting at each extreme to get a feel for what is happening. Start out riding over small bumps and jumps until you get a feel for a particular setting. As you become comfortable, move up to the largest bumps and jumps you normally encounter. Here's the way the compression feels at each extreme:
· Compression too hard:
The suspension won't compress as easily and quickly, and you won't be using up the full suspension travel. The ATV can feel as if it has no suspension at all and will bounce from side to side like an overinflated basketball. Your ride will be too harsh.
· Compression too soft:
The suspension compresses more quickly and easily. Set it too soft and the ATV feels mushy and wallows around. When you land from a large jump, the suspension will quickly compress and then bottom out with a thud. You will know this by the noise!
(Note: A general rule of thumb is that your suspension should bottom out occasionally. This way, you know that you are using up the full suspension travel. Continual hard bottoming is not the hot setup, however!)
REBOUND
Rebound damping controls how quickly the shock returns to its full extension after compressing. Push down hard on the rear of the machine and then let it go. With the rebound at full hard, the machine will pop back up more slowly. To best understand what effect your rebound control is having, ride with it set at each extreme. Start out riding slow at first to get a feel for what the shock is doing. Whoops are rolling bumps about two feet high and six feet apart and are the best obstacle to test rebound.
Rear shock rebound too hard:
In this position the suspension rebounds more slowly. As you ride through the whoops, the suspension might not rebound quickly enough and won't be ready for the next bump. In effect, it's like having no suspension at all. The shock "packs up" and will cause the quad to swap from side to side.
Rear rebound too soft:
In this position the suspension rebounds more quickly. Desert racers who encounter miles of whoops prefer their rebound softer (faster). If your rebound is too fast, however, the ATV will feel like a pogostick and kick back at your rear end.
Front suspension rebound:
If the front rebound is too hard (slow), the front end will stay down after a bump and dig into the ground. If the front rebound is too fast, the front end and bars will pop up into your face. (Only a few stock and aftermarket front shocks are user-adjustable for rebound.)
(Note: As ybu increase (stiffen) your preload, the rebound becomes faster. With softer preload, rebound becomes slower For this reason, set your preload first, then compression and rebound.)
The stock suspension on most ATV's works pretty well for trailriders and aggressive play riders. Racers, on the other hand, will want to enlist the help of an aftermarket suspension company to rebuild or replace the stock shocks, depending on the model.
If you want suggested settings specific to your machine, contact me via email and I will send it to you.
If you only ride in a straight line over perfectly flat terrain, your suspension doesn't matter too much, but ATVs were designed for much more than that. Even if you only race up and down the hills, your suspension may be bouncing you around in the whoops and preventing your Atv from hooking up.
Whenever you get big air, you will also eventually get big ground. If you want to land and live to tell the tale, you need to know about preload, compression and rebound.
High-performance and sport quads have one, two or (usually) three adjustments. Once you learn what each controls, you are well on your way to a better ride. Read on and learn how easy it is to set up your own suspension.
· Preload:
When you adjust the preload, you are adjusting the length of the shock spring to suit your body weight or the load you will be carrying on your ATV.
· Compression:
When you adjust the compression, you are adjusting how easily or quickly the shock compresses when you hit a bump or land from a jump.
· Rebound:
When you adjust the rebound, you adjust how quickly the shock returns to its full extension after you hit a bump or land from a jump.
When dialing in your suspension, make only one change at a time. This will allow you to get a better feel for the effect each change is making. Start with preload, then set compression and rebound.
PRELOAD
At the top or bottom of your shock spring, you will find a large spanner (nut) that controls the length of the spring. The more you compress the spring with the spanner, the less the ATV will sag when you sit on it. To measure this setting, you will need the help of a friend.
1. Pick up the rear of the ATV so the rear wheels are off the ground. On utility quads, you can put a jack under the rear rack.
2. Have your friend measure the distance from the top center of the rear axle to any point directly above it on the frame of tne ATV. Write down that measurernent.
3. Put the quad back on the ground and, with your riding gear on and your tires properly inflated, sit forward on the seat with your feet on the pegs. Have your friend measure the distance again and determine the difference between the two. The difference is called ride height sag. (If you have racks and usually ride with them loaded with over 25 pounds, take your measurements with them loaded).
4. Adjust your preload so that the sag is 30% - 36% of your total rear suspension travel, as stated in the specs for your machine. Aggressive racers should set closer to 30%. If you are riding with a heavier aftermarket swingarm and axle, your preload should be a little stiffer.
5. Ride height sag on front shocks should be about 15% (racers) to 25% (trailriders) of the front suspension travel. For 150-pound riders, this would probably be the middle position. For 190-pound riders, you would typically set at the stiffest. Sag on ATV front forks should be about 15% of the front suspension travel.
COMPRESSION
Compression damping determines how easily and quickly the suspension compresses when you hit a bump or land from a lump. In order to properly set compression, ride the machine with this setting at each extreme to get a feel for what is happening. Start out riding over small bumps and jumps until you get a feel for a particular setting. As you become comfortable, move up to the largest bumps and jumps you normally encounter. Here's the way the compression feels at each extreme:
· Compression too hard:
The suspension won't compress as easily and quickly, and you won't be using up the full suspension travel. The ATV can feel as if it has no suspension at all and will bounce from side to side like an overinflated basketball. Your ride will be too harsh.
· Compression too soft:
The suspension compresses more quickly and easily. Set it too soft and the ATV feels mushy and wallows around. When you land from a large jump, the suspension will quickly compress and then bottom out with a thud. You will know this by the noise!
(Note: A general rule of thumb is that your suspension should bottom out occasionally. This way, you know that you are using up the full suspension travel. Continual hard bottoming is not the hot setup, however!)
REBOUND
Rebound damping controls how quickly the shock returns to its full extension after compressing. Push down hard on the rear of the machine and then let it go. With the rebound at full hard, the machine will pop back up more slowly. To best understand what effect your rebound control is having, ride with it set at each extreme. Start out riding slow at first to get a feel for what the shock is doing. Whoops are rolling bumps about two feet high and six feet apart and are the best obstacle to test rebound.
Rear shock rebound too hard:
In this position the suspension rebounds more slowly. As you ride through the whoops, the suspension might not rebound quickly enough and won't be ready for the next bump. In effect, it's like having no suspension at all. The shock "packs up" and will cause the quad to swap from side to side.
Rear rebound too soft:
In this position the suspension rebounds more quickly. Desert racers who encounter miles of whoops prefer their rebound softer (faster). If your rebound is too fast, however, the ATV will feel like a pogostick and kick back at your rear end.
Front suspension rebound:
If the front rebound is too hard (slow), the front end will stay down after a bump and dig into the ground. If the front rebound is too fast, the front end and bars will pop up into your face. (Only a few stock and aftermarket front shocks are user-adjustable for rebound.)
(Note: As ybu increase (stiffen) your preload, the rebound becomes faster. With softer preload, rebound becomes slower For this reason, set your preload first, then compression and rebound.)
The stock suspension on most ATV's works pretty well for trailriders and aggressive play riders. Racers, on the other hand, will want to enlist the help of an aftermarket suspension company to rebuild or replace the stock shocks, depending on the model.
If you want suggested settings specific to your machine, contact me via email and I will send it to you.
Feb 17, 2000 | 01:08 AM
#7
Trailblazer
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 40
Likes: 0
I just got a pair of TCS Sag Control shocks.
They are Zero Preload Shock (ZPS) so you don't really ever set your sag. You set your ride height occording to the area your riding.
Mr_400eX
They are Zero Preload Shock (ZPS) so you don't really ever set your sag. You set your ride height occording to the area your riding.
Mr_400eX
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Feb 17, 2000 | 06:35 PM
#8
Pro Rider
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 488
Likes: 0
Hello, On the TCS Shocks, do you mean that the height can be adjusted without a preload srew adjuster? I am wondering because I ride alot of different terrain and need the ground clearence, but would like to have the low center of gravity on the race track? Any help would be great.
Thanks
James
Thanks
James
Feb 19, 2000 | 07:48 PM
#10
Range Rover
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 200
Likes: 0
Yes ride height can be adjusted but you lose the zero preload...... all that you have to do is lower the C-clip that holds the top spring plate. In essance it adds preload and removes the sag.
good luck
walter
88Banshee370
95 Dodge Ram 4x4
99Quadbuddy
good luck
walter
88Banshee370
95 Dodge Ram 4x4
99Quadbuddy