Thanks for the help. I didn't mean to get an argument started. This is my buddies Rubicon, and this is the first problem he has had with it. He rides it like he stole it, and it has been a reliable machine. I will try the reset mentioned. Thanks again for the help.

 

BJones, this is for stealing your thread.

Rubicon Hondamatic Code Retrieval
1. Put the gear shift lever in neutral (be sure the neutral indicator comes on) and the ignition switch OFF (vehicle at a stop).
2. While pushing the UP and DOWN shift switches (ESP) simultaneously, turn the ignition key to the on position.
3. Release the UP and DOWN switches immediately, then at the same time push both the UP and DOWN shift switches again and hold form more than 2 seconds.
4. The problem code is displayed by a certain number of blinks “ - - “ on the gear indicator, which indicates the problem code by the number of blinks. If “N” (neutral) stays ON on the position indicator, the retrieval process was not correctly performed. Repeat the procedures from step one at this time.)
5. When the problem code(s) displays, release the shift switches.


You should see “ - - “ for approximately 3 seconds then off, then the “ - - “ should flash, once for code one, twice for code two and so on. The engine control module (ECM) can store two different codes. If your ECM has stored two different codes, the first code displayed is the most recent and the second code is the earlier code. Write them down.

To Erase the Problem Codes
1. Push and hold the UP and DOWN shift switches simultaneously for 3 seconds of more while the problem code is being displayed (i.e., “ - - “ blinking on the gear position indictor).
2. When the erasure is completed, the blinking pattern changes to the erasure confirmation blink.
3. Turn the ignition off.


Initial Setting Procedure

Note:
· After replacement of any of the following parts, perform the initial setting procedure below.
- ECM
- Throttle sensor*
- Angle sensor
*Also, perform the initial setting procedure if the throttle cable is disconnected (i.e., car-buretor removal/installation, cable replacement etc.).
· The gear position blinks in Indicator Mode 2 when the initial setting was not made properly. Repeat the procedure from step 2.

1. Start the engine and let it idle about one minute with the sub-transmission in neutral. Stop the engine.
2. Make sure the gearshift lever is in the neutral position (be sure the neutral indicator comes on) and turn the ignition switch off.
3. Turn the ignition switch ON while pushing the UP and DOWN shift switches (ESP shift switches) simultaneously.
4. Release both the UP and DOWN shift switches immediately, then push and release the shift switches in the order of UP, DOWN, and UP. Do not hold the switches in).
5. A constant “ - - “ indication stays ON on the gear selector indicator. (If the gear position indicator shows a continuous “N”, repeat the procedure from step 2.)
6. Move the throttle lever to the fully closed position, then to the fully open position, and then move it to the fully closed position again immediately (within 10 seconds) after “ - - “ comes ON on the gear position indicator.
7. Check the control motor operation sound (the control motor should function at this time to adjust the angle sensor).
8. When the initial setting procedure is complete, the indication on the gear selector indicator changes from the continuous lighting of “ - - “ to the continuous lighting of “N”.

Code 1 - Ignition Pulse Generator system
Code 2 - Speed Sensor System
Code 3 - Gear Position Switch System
Code 4 - Throttle Sensor System
Code 5 - Angle Sensor System (Motor lock i.e., angle sensor, wiring, ECM, control motor, motor transmission section, transmission unit)
Code 6 - Angle Sensor System (swash plate angle, sensor / wiring)
Code 7 - ESP shift switch system
Code 8 - ECM EEPROM
Code 9 - ECM voltage converter circuit
Code 10 - ECM fail-safe relay circuit
Code 11 - ECM motor drive circuit
Code 12 - ECM CPU

Hope this helps.

P.S.
"What happened to elegant simplicity???"
This is easy to answer. It is manual and mechanical, and nobody likes it anymore.

 

You say how reliable it is, then do a post like that last one????

Lets see now: Stand on one foot, chew gum, and whistle the Star Spangled Banner....................... Oh yeah, and do this in a snowstorm 50 miles from nowhere......in the dark.

How ridiculous!! Already crossed this one off my Christmas list. Lets hope the Rancher AT is an improvement, cause my list is getting real short.

 

---post edited----

never mind what I said before,
if someone like manual trans and simplicity, that is cool , stick with it.
I , for one, like the auto trans, it is awsome.

on the side note---- why are you concern and read into a a rubicon post.
looking for trouble ....are you?

 

Yes, it's called 2002. Scares the hell out ya doesn't it. Just think, an ATV that is capable of "self diagnostics". The capability of the ECM to recognize a problem and store a trouble code to aid in its diagnosis. What's next?

Better start looking for an ATV that still has a crank starter, what if the rope breaks? Those stupid new features.

Give it the gas, let off, shift, give it the gas, let off, shift, give it the gas, let off, shift, give it the gas, let off, shift, give it the gas, let off, shift, give it the gas, let off, shift, give it the gas, let off, shift, give it the gas, let off, shift, give it the gas, let off, shift, give it the gas, let off, shift, give it the gas, let off, shift, give it the gas, let off, shift, give it the gas, let off, shift, give it the gas, let off, shift, give it the gas, let off, shift, give it the gas, let off, shift, give it the gas, let off, shift, give it the gas, let off, shift, give it the gas, let off, shift, give it the gas, let off, shift, give it the gas, let off, shift, give it the gas, let off, shift, give it the gas, let off, shift, give it the gas, let off, shift, give it the gas, let off, shift.

Boy, that was a great ride!

I will never argue that a manual shift 2-wd Rancher will probably have fewer problems over its life time than a Rubicon. But I would rather ride around on a Cadillac, and if it has problems, I will have it towed to the repair shop, have it repaired and return to the trails. I would never argue that there is a higher possibility that a Cadillac Escalade could have more troubles than a bare-bones 2-wd Tahoe, but I know which one is nicer and more of a pleasure to drive.

I have ridden our Rubicon for over 3600 miles. I personally have put about 50 miles on our 02 Rancher and could not wait to get back on our Rubicon. Love the advancements and technology that is finally making it into the ATV industry. Better buy a few extra ultra simple, all mechanical ATV and store them.

quote
"You say how reliable it is, then do a post like that last one????"

What does self diagnostics have to do with reliability?? The new AT has the same hydrostaic trans as the Rubicon, just no low range. Your list is getting shorter like - - - - - - - , ah never mind.

Good night.

 

I have a rubi and know a few others and we ride the he!! out of them and I am the only one that has had problems, it also has the most miles 3,931 and 496 hours. No elecrical probs and I hit the water and mud up to the racks about every time out. I have had a busted CV boot/inner CV work done and on the same trip to the shop I had a new diff housing put in it (mine busted in 5 pieces), new limited slip and final drive front gears. Second and last time (for now) I had a new back diff, back axle(both were stripped), 4 new wheel bearings and new front knuckles so it's been rode hard enough to say that the majority of the rubicons are not having electronic problems. I think most atv's do have a back axle and shaft drive but it doesn't mean a lot of owners have them break. We on the forums are probably harder on the bikes we ride than the average joe so things will break and electronics will go out from time to time but who really gives a $h!t, just ride. It seems to me that some might have bought the wrong bike and now want to make the rubicon, the bike they should have bought look bad couse someone has a tranny/ electrical prob. I have had work done but if you ride as hard as I do your bike will be going to the shop from time to time too.

 

The reason you had to do that great "high-tech self-diagnostics routine" is that the thing FAILED!! Read B Jones original post. You don't seem to get it that it should never have failed in the first place! Your own posts admit that the bikes fail fairly often, yet you deny reality and talk some unfortunate would-be buyer into getting one! And what happens 5 years from now when all these bikes have high mileage?

Any bike you ride out into the wilderness needs to be 100%, 100% of the time!! So far the Rancher 350 is the only thing in Hondas lineup that I am willing to trust. (OK the 450 is OK, but I have other issues with it). Honda says the Rancher 400AT has an "improved" version of the Rubicon trans. Why did it need to be "improved"???

 

So far my rubicon has blown the entire tranny. The oil pump was faulty and blew the tranny. Also water pump went bad. So far my rubicon has been nothing but headaches. Its in the shop for warranty work all the time. I cant wait till i get rid of it. The only problem no one has a bike to replace it with. The 4x4 mkt stinks right now, no mfg has a rock solid bike. (like the way honda used to make their bikes)

Just look at the brakes on the rubicon or any other honda 4x4...drum brakes. They are great brakes for filling up with water and mud, it holds it in there so you get the most rust possable. What is honda thinking with drum brakes?

the rubicon has left me stranded in the woods to many times to list. I think the rubicon is junk! Unfortunatly I am still a rubicon owner [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img]

forgot to mention we bought 3 at the same time and all of them had problems. My rubicon is the only one left. The 2 others were sold ASAP!

I see that the love of a brand is blinding people. You should buy a rubicon if you plan to drive you grandmother around the front lawn.....


I wonder why my HONDA DEALER is telling everyone that the rubicon is not s trail bike and it will encounter some problems if you ride it hard????

my rubi has over 3000 miles. I have been looking into the rubicon problems around the web. It seems most of the problems start to happen over the 3000 mile mark. But it was not like that in my case, in the first 10 hr i blew that waterpump...

 

Thanks Specta, we will try it this afternoon. Thanks again to everyone for the help.

 

honda does still make a rock solid machine...the '02 foreman s!!!!! i too dont want that electronic stuff on my machine mud,water +electricity= problems.....coming from an electronics engineer