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Lift, duration, and overlap. Stage two being a more aggressive cam than a stage one. The ATV cams have for whatever reason adopted this format, stage one engine mods being the "first step" up from stock, stage two the second. Roughly speaking.

In the automotive world, you recite cam dimensions: .525" lift, 294 degrees duration, 220 degrees duration @ .050" lift, 108 degree lobe centers. That tells you everything. Back in the real old days they would say "3/4 race cam" or "full race cam" in the car stuff. That goes clear back to flatheads.

If you look at the ATV cam makers websites, you will see their actual specs. You can compare these to the stock specs, and learn some things.

Sorry, you ask what time it is, I tell you how to build a watch.

 

so a stage 1 cam would be for say a slightly modded motor and a stage 2 would be for a bored out and built motor?

 

i would not get the stage 1 unless you don't have a high compression piston. my friend has stage 1 and i have stage 2. we have equal amounts of low end and i have more from mid to top. however, he is running compression of 10:1 and i am running 10.8:1. even with the 10:1, i would run the stage 2. it opens the bike up a decent amount but just don't expect 20 horsepower with just a cam and/or piston.

 

When making a cam decision, call the cam manufacturer. They will tell you what works and with what mods to get the best set up. Too much cam in an otherwise mostly stock engine can actually perform worse than the stock cam.

 

I talked to the guy from hotcams and on a stock bore and stock compression they see 17% more on top and 15% more in the mid and a small loss on the bottom with the stage 2.

 

I have a stage 1 in my 416. You really have to keep the rpms up, or it will bog out bad.