Thanks for the explanation. I had no idea. I don't think it is the clutch because I not seeing the symptoms you are describing.

Y

 

ystcyr, this may be your 6th new ATV but it is your first new Rubicon. Our friends bought a 2002 Rubicon and it did the same thing for about the first 200 miles, so did our Rancher. I would still put more miles on it before anyone starts tearing things apart or spends tons of hours trying to fix it. I personally hate to have something brand new get torn apart, exspecially if it doesn't need it.

Make sure they check the idle speed, Honda spec: 1400 +- 100 RPM. ALL gasoline engines the idle speed may be set a little low when new to begin with because as the break in the speed will increase as friction decreases.

I don't know who is old enough to remember, but in the "old" days (40's - early 80's), carbureted engines in cars and trucks had what they called an "anti-stall dash pot" mounted on the carburetor that when you let off the throttle it would catch the linkage and slow down in closing. This served two purposes. 1st: When you first shut the throttle plates you have fuel in the intake runner. When the throttle plates close you cut ff the air. If you have an infra-red exhaust analyzer probe in the tail pipe you would see the HC (hydro carbons, un-burnt fuel) go sky high. These HC's temporarily fuel foul the spark plug (milliseconds in time). This is why on decell fuel injection shuts down the injectors. 2: It also kept the engine from stalling by allowing a small amount of air to continue the fuel burning.

This little item was originally called a throttle dashpot and later picked up the name of the "anti-stall dashpot. That was before anyone knew what emissions were. It was probably the very first piece of emission-control devices ever installed on a vehicle engine followed by the PVC valve in 1961.

Hope this helps.

 

Why do you think more miles on the machine would fix this problem? Nothing would change after 200 miles right?

Thanks

Y

 

Probably because after like 150KM or 10 hrs, you do your first oil change right?

 

Im thinking its either idle speed too low, or float level too low.

 

I doubt that changing the oil would fix the machine from stalling, but, I have heard of weirder things.

 

When the ATV is broken in it will run better. Changing the oil will actually lean out the mixture due to the HC in the oil that got past the rings which is normal. You will have more "blow-by" before the rings have seated. These are all minor issues. Our friends never had their idle speed adjusted, but did change the oil. I would ride it and have the first service done by the dealer and make sure they set the idle speed and mixture according to Honda's recommended procedures.

I just don't feel this is a trans problem. I do believe it is an idle speed or mixture problem.

 

Cold weather and oil viscosity have a lot to do with how the tran works, ystcyr. Remember it is a fluid transmission. I have noticed that in winter weather, Rubicon trannies are real stiff until you get the machine FULLY heat soaked. Not to mention the carburation which is probably calibrated more for like 60F. I have noticed you can let them idle a long time, and when you take off, the tran is still stiff. You have to drive around a long time before they begin to feel like they do in the summer. I guess if your dealer thinks there is something wrong, I respect that, and I would need to drive the thing to make a judgement. But I do find it strange that another 04 does the same thing. I tend to agree with Specta, put some miles on it, get your first inspection done, oil changed with proper visc for your climate, idle drop (Hondaspeak for mix screw adjustment), idle speed set (with a tach) and go from there.

 

You guys are awesome. Thanks for taking the time to explain these things to me. I will be picking up my ATV from the dealer today and will try everything that you recommend.

Y

 

FWIW, friends Rancher 400AT did the sme thing a few times. He's figuring it's a break in period thing...we'll see.