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Choke cable

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Old 01-15-2004, 11:42 AM
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Default Choke cable

I have a 2002 rancher 4x 350 cc my choke cable freezes all the time in the winter what can I do to not have it freeze up all the time.
I have been using a 30,000 btu heater in my garage now to thaw the thing out.
But if it ever snaps.....How much of a pain is it to replace?
 
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Old 01-15-2004, 12:09 PM
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Default Choke cable

I don't have any personal experience with this problem (living in So. Calif.), but there have been a bunch of posts on this before. Try a search and see what you turn up! As I recall, it is caused by freezing moisture inside the cable housing. There is a spray (silicon?) you can squirt down inside the cable housing to help displace the moisture. And, do your best to keep the cable dry.
 
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Old 01-15-2004, 12:17 PM
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Default Choke cable

Do an advanced search on "Rancher and Choke" in the Honda forum. There are several good posts. Appearently, there is a new and improved cable available.
 
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Old 01-15-2004, 12:17 PM
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Default Choke cable

Thanks.
I try to do the silly-cone thing you had mentioned [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]
 
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Old 01-17-2004, 12:37 AM
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Default Choke cable

I've got the exact same quad and I'm running into the same problem. The choke cables are cheap (about 30 bucks). One thing I've tried on mine is to unscrew the choke cable from the carb ( that's where it freezes) and, making sure your choke cable is all the way out, hold the cable in an upright position and spray ignition dryer/sealer into the cable. Let it sink in and spray it again...... do this several times to let the fluid go down into the cable. Then let the cable hang down to drain any excess and screw it back on. By the way, I tried this with WD-40 and it didn't seem to work for very long, I think it's a little too thick to penetrate far enough. Ignition dryer/sealer is like water. I tried this and it makes a huge difference. The Rancher choke cables are a flawed design. The cable is plastic and it screws into a metal choke and I think water seeps in during the expansion/ contraction of the metal. Not to mention the fact that just before it goes into the choke, it makes about a 60 degree bend. I access the cable by pulling the trim off the top of the gas tank, then both black plastic sides, then the intake snorkel (one screw and on push-pin). This makes it way easier to get a wrench on the cable from the left side and you can pull the cable out the right side. Let me know if you have any luck!
 
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Old 01-17-2004, 12:57 AM
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Default Choke cable

Wow...I'll probably wait for warmer weather to try that one. I have a heater in the garage I'll use that for the winter. A friend of mine had to replace the one on his Foreman (same year) he says about a 3 hour job.
Thanks for the info on it!!
 
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Old 01-17-2004, 09:00 AM
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Default Choke cable

In MN at the dealer I'm familiar with, choke cables are more like 8$ US if I'm not mistaken. Just replace the d*&^ cable and don't mess with the old one. Besides, on the Ranchers especially, they like to come apart up near the top and there's no fixin' 'em. BTW, there's no way that's a 3 hour job either, I would say 45 min, maybe an hour and a half if it's your first time. Also, there's an improved cable available (you should automatically get it). You can identify it by the metal gator spring around the boot at the top of the cable.
 
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Old 01-17-2004, 03:22 PM
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Default Choke cable

Mr Plow,

I just replaced a choke cable on my 2001 rubicon 500 . It was fairly easy. What I did was taped a small rope to the end of the old cable with tape, then pulled it through, taped the new cable to the rope, pulled it through, was finished in 15mins!!. Saved hours of plastic removal etc. Have fun in the cold!!!! Hope you have hot grips!!!!!
 
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Old 01-17-2004, 05:02 PM
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Default Choke cable

Thanks for that tip.
Hot grips? No way. Just good gloves!!!
 
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