Everyone knows that you should use Chet's racing oil in a 10W40. Nothing better.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

 

I've been on here so long that I remember back when Raptoryfm660r signed the bottom Chet. (with a little glasses wearing "cool" emotion)

 

LOL[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

Coyotechaser

Where have you been?

I still make my own blend and have old, new stock in storage.

 

I've been out fixing flex shafts and broken mower wheels. Plus changing oil in all my machines. Which I always use Chet's racing oil in. Just seems to make the wood splitter split all the faster.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img] I used to split one cord an hour. Now that I use Chet's racing oil. I split 5 cords in a half hour. j/k

 

I hear you on fixing stuff I had to fix an idler arm and the bolt was on the bottom and my arm wasn't six foot long so I had to call in the troops for the extra arm.

I even save some of my used synthetic blend for chain dips.

 

I accidently bought 2 gallons of non-detergent SAE30. (I think that's what it's called.) Now I don't know what to do with it. Do you think it would be alright for the chain saw chain? I have about 10 machines that use at least 6 different types of oil. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-confused.gif[/img] (and/or different mixtures) I've made myself a chart.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

Wow![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img] My pictures went up fast. My camera had a run in with one or two bears. The camera held it's own but will need a small amount of repair. At least it doesn't need oil.[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

That type of oil would be good for something that runs continuous like those flashing construction highway signs with the briggs motors.

 

Great articles:

http://www.thumperfaq.com/oil.htm

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html#Oil

 

For those of you that don't feel like reading alot of technical stuff, this is the important part of the second article reconranger linked to:

"There are several key advantages to using Synthetic Oils:

Synthetic oils have a higher viscosity index than mineral base oils. Synthetics have better resistance to thinning at high temperatures and thickening at low temperatures. Since synthetics have little or no VIIs, synthetics last longer in service without radical changes in viscosity.

Synthetics have a much higher film strength than petroleum oils, so it takes a lot longer for the oil to drain completely off your bearings and into your sump.

Diester synthetics are polar molecules with solvent properties which dissolve residues and combustion byproducts.
Choosing a Break-In Oil for Your Motorcycle

The theory that synthetic oils should not be used during break in is the same as the theory that your engine will break in better if you use synthetic oil but add a dinner candle to your four quarts of engine oil. Frankly, I find this theory, um, questionable. Oh, hell, laughable. Corvettes and Porsches come from the factory with Mobil-1 in their engines. Remember, these engineers have designed world-champion engines for F1, Indy, Le Mans 24 hours, etc.

There's a lot of mythology surrounding break-in oil. It's simply not the case that synthetic oils are more "slippery" than conventional oils. Also, break-in of a modern engine is completely different than break-in of an engine made before about 1980. Modern engines, by comparison to something made in the '60s, are pretty much already broken in from the factory due to the fact that today we hold much tighter machining tolerances. The exception, of course, would be the Ural, a motorcycle made on a production line unmodified since about 1935.

I recommend you change your break-in oil at 75 to 100 miles, 100 to 150 kilometers. Your engine does shed a fair amount of metal particles in the first 20-50 miles, and I really can't understand why you would want this stuff floating around your bearings for the first 600 miles, 1000 kilometers.

I put Shell Rotella "synthetic" (87% group III) oil in my DL650 at 75 miles. It burns no oil, gets great gas mileage, and runs great. I recommend you switch to a good synthetic at your first oil change. "

 

And, car oil is crap, especially 88 cent stuf from Wal-Mart!