Look for a tran linkage problem. Honda even has a service bulletin on this problem regarding broken shift arms. The linkage is located underneath the front engine cover. The easiest way to remove the cover is to have a friend help you lift it upright so it sits on the rear wheels and the rear rack (don't forget to turn the gas off and pinch off the fuel tank vent). You may want to ask your dealer to view the bulletin, or try to find a copy of it online. If I remember, there's more detail and a bit of a shortcut in the bulletin instructions than you'll find in your shop manual.

 

Thanks Dzzy,

When I tear it down this weekend I will check. I don't have to stand the bike up see as I have already removed the engine from the frame, I figured it may need to go to deep in the engine to not work on it out of the frame. Wish me luck.


If anyone has any suggestions I am all ears.

Thanks
Mike

 

I'll take a poke at this one.....

The 2000 rancher had an updated arm assembly available ( like dzzy stated ). The symptom on that was the unit would not shift up, and would shift down or vica-versa, from a crack on the end of the master shift arm assembly, where it contacts a peg on the shift drum 'star wheel'. The newer arm is beefed up in this area where it cracks.
I think the problem you are having, feeling resistance both ways on the shifter like it is bound up, extends from another problem. On occasion, the pivot bolt for the 'star wheel' detent roller will back out. this lets the detent hop over the face of the star and come in contact with the pegs. Sometimes it will completely unscrew and will be laying in the front cover when you remove it. Eather way, it will not let the shift drum remain in the position it needs to be in. Hence, the transmission will be caught in between a few gears. That would explain why when you accelerated, the engine would die.
The procedure is the same as the installation of the updated master shifter arm assembley
click here to view ( sometimes the link comes up to the image right away, if not, choose year, trx350tm, and under engine click, gear fork )
-- Remove the front cover of the engine
-- Remove the metal oil line that crosses under the clutches
-- Remove the clutch arm, lifter cam, ball retainer, and bearing holder ( not shown in this diagram ) from the clutch and shift arm
-- Unstake the clutch center nut, remove nut and washer ( right hand thread )
-- Slide the wet clutch assembly ahead until it against the centrifical clutch
-- Remove item 15, 11 and 10 from the shifter arm, by sliding it foreward and rotating a little to clear the wet clutch pack.
-- Flip itwm 10 over and check for cracks in the stamped tabs ( updated arm does not have stamped tabs, look more like small blocks )
-- Check that detent arm 7 is in place and riding on star wheel 6 ( should be between the star points on its diameter, in a low spot )
-- If detent arm is out of place and on the face of the star wheel, remove it, account for the spring and spacer washer. check if the arm is damaged or the spring is bent abnormally.
-- Check the threads where it screws into the front case half, for damage.
-- Apply a thread locker to the threads and install, do not forget the spacer, and watch if it drops out while installing the detent arm. This can be frustrating because of the spring tention
-- If the master shift arm is not an updated one, good time to install one now.
-- Reassemble all removed parts so the clutch can be slipped back on. Take caution when aligning the clutch, make sure it is seated all the way before installing the washer and not. Do not use an air impact to tighten the nut. It may cause the rear metal clutch disc to jump out of place. Use a torque wrench and torque to 70 ft lbs, and restake the nut.
-- Your manual should show the rest of the installation proceedure. Note: there should be a washer on the outside of the shift arm shaft next to the cover and also one on the shaft before everything was slipped on. In the diagram it shows two washers ( 18 ) behind everything, but I am pretty sure there is only one back there and the other goes on after the clutch lever, next to the cover.

Hope this helps

----- Gimpster -----

 

I agree the symptoms aren't exactly like those mentioned in the bulletin. You may find exactly what Gimpster's describing. I've seen that particular bolt back out on various models on more than one occasion, as well as various other problems. So...inspect the linkage carefully.

 

Thanks for the time Gimpster and dzzy

With your post I feel like maybe I have something to look for when I get in there, sounds like it may be pretty obvious to see, I hope so anyway. I think while I have it apart I will replace the clutch disks do you think thats a good Idea?

Also One more thing I thought of...When I was tring to get the gear changed with the manual shifter lever. It did not want to go back to home position without help. Does that give ya any more clues.

Thanks alot,

Mike

 

While the clutch basket is accesable, disassemble it and check the disc thickness to determine its condition. Also check the metal discs for discoloring, warping and or scoring. Replace as needed. I recommend if you have one bad disc out of all the metal and fibers to replace them as a set. remember to soak them in oil before installing.

Need anymore help, chime in ....

----- Gimpster -----

 

Hey all,

Gimpster,

I opened her up and found the problem, Now if it caused other problems I don't know yet.

I found the spring pin that holds the gear shift plate in position, broken at the threads and laying in the bottom of the case.
The cam lifter lever at the top that gear shift plate has a grinded spot at the end where the roller bearing for the "Y" goes into the lifter cam. I don't see that it rubed on anything and I don't know if its was made that way just to keep the roller from separating from the shaft. Do you know?

So far everything looks to be in the right place and moving smoothly.
I am tempted to just tap out the broken bolt and put her back together. Any opinion?

Thanks Mike

 

You say the ' Y ' has a notch in it in the center, I believe that is normal.
That broken pin is kind of an odd occorance, can't honestly say I have seen one of those break yet.
I would check for any metal shavings that could have gotten into the tranny gears, If there wasn't any in the oil when you drained it, it should be ok. Make sure to check that shift arm to be sure it is the updated one.
Did you check the clutch ?
Before you reinstall the front cover, after you repair the problem, shift the tranny into all gears to make sure they work good. If you can, spin the output shaft around in each gear a few times and listen/feel for any abnormal roughness, in case any metal shavings worked their way into the gears.

----- Gimp -----

 

No the "y" thing is in good condition, The lever that fits into that spot has the ground out spot on it, its the lever that is on the rod that the ES motor turns. {I would put pics up be I left my download cable for the camera at the office.} I have checked for metal shaving inside the case but found none. I will run a magnet though the oil I drained.

I have not checked the clutch yet. I really don't what to mess things up. LOL But my better sense tell me to do it.
By the way what is the best thing for sealing the crank case back up with it didn't look like the factory used much gasket seal at all?

I am ready to ride.
I hope the honda dealer has this spring pin in stock.

Thanks for your time and help.
\\\

Mike

 

I think the part you're talking about...the actuator for the manual clutch, is supposed to be round, and not have a flattened spot in it. I use Hondabond high temp to seal the cover. You don't need that much to seal it properly.