The down and dirty on OIL/MAINTENANCE
#11
I wasn't in disagreement with you nuke. I agree. I just was saying what my dealer told me and since I have 42 months of warrantly coverage, I was going to abide by his recommendation.
In my 300, I run Mobil 1 20-50w fully synthetic motorcycle specific oil that is compatable with viscous clutches. I would rather run the 10-40W viscosity of this formulation in the new ATV than what they recommend.
In my 300, I run Mobil 1 20-50w fully synthetic motorcycle specific oil that is compatable with viscous clutches. I would rather run the 10-40W viscosity of this formulation in the new ATV than what they recommend.
#12
#13
Thanks for the comments, I am going to go with the manuals recommendation and use a 10W40 non synthetic (only has 47 miles on it) since it is still in the break in period after that I will use synthetic. As far as the oil filter goes, I am stopping by Honda to see how much equity in my home I will lose buying one.
#14
The oil filter was better priced that I feared, about $7.00. On the first oil change I actually BROKE a 3/8 drive Craftsman socket attempting removal of the Rubicon oil filter (were we talking a Rubicon here?) Had to go to a 1/2" drive, and then sweat beads were on my forehead that something on the machine would snap before the oil filter came off! I suspect it was a minor case of "seizing" with dissimiliar metals. If this oil filter change is on an ES, it's a good idea to have the O-ring on hand, it's easy to damage with the sharp edges of the filter retainer.
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