i put my stage 2 hot cam and jets in my 450R, now i seem to have it outa time, it will run but it knocks like a possible valve tapping a piston, once it fired i shut it off immediately. I can find the timing marks on the timing chain sprocket but where is the other mark? and how od i go about timing this thing up?

 

the top timing marks are on your cam sprocket and on the cam shaft holder assemby(i guess thats what you call it) on your sproket you have to little lines (one on ether side and the body has two little arrowhead lookin things cast into the aluminum,,look through the cam sproket spokes when your at TDC and they should line up(one on left and one on right),,You did re shimm to the correct specs right?

good luck

 

what am i suppose to shim, this is my first time puttin a cam in something like this to please bare with me?

 

The R uses the shim and bucket set up on the valve clearances,,if you look on top of your valve spring theres a small shim(about a 1/4" in dia.) and on that shim are some #,s like .016 or .112 whatever,thats the shim thickness,by increasing or reduceing the thickness of the shimms is what gives you the proper clearances

which are

Exhaust: .28 mm +/- .03 mm

Intake: .16 mm +/- .03 mm

so you need a set of metric feeler gauges

 

heres a good write up,,,click on trx how to guide then click on hrc kit installl and scroll down theres some good pics of what im talking about

CLICK HERE

 

Yeah, check the shims.
A friend of mine had this happen and one of his shims was canted sideways and was holding the valve open all the time.
He also thought it was the timing until he found the crooked shim.

 

well i got everything in time, i started in once and till tickin, i took the valve cover back off and i also noticed there are two timing marks on the crankshaft. so i timed it up with the other one and now it seems like its hard to kick so i didnt even try it, any ideas??

 

as long as its timed
everything is installed correctly
torqued to specs
intake ,exhaust and decompression lever clearances are all within specs

you should be good to go

if you dont feel good about it,tear it down and start over,its only about a 2 hour job,that way you know your all good

 

start over. if you are not sure ,get help. make sure your piston is at top and the timing mark on the primary drive gear is lined up with the mark by the hole at the right crankcase cover,its a large bolt type cover about 1 inch in diameter.next ,set the chain in place at the same time that you point the cam gear mark in the forward position to line up with the index mark on the camshaft holder. before you torque read the numbers on the shims ,that you hopefully did'nt get mixed up,and write them down and wich side they are on.torque everything to spec. and check your valve clearence BEFORE you start it. if it's not the same as the specs from the new cam , you need new shims with the corrected thickness. if you tell your dealer what the clearence is and what size shims are currently in ,then they can get you the correct shims. if they don't have a qualified enough mechanic to tell you this. they should not be in bussiness. if this is the case , then call the camshaft manufacturer and they will tell you.if you've already got this problem fixed, then please, disregard this post.