Was not aware of that^^

 

rider11x do you know of a place to get these . I have a z250 that stripped the threads out , when I was just putting the plug back in after the first oil change ,with my fingers it just kept on turning with my fingers ,figure that one out

 

You can buy self tapping drain plugs at your auto parts store.....have a friend hold a vacume near it as you install it so any shavings will be sucked out.

 

Most well stocked auto parts stores.....Or a good machine shop that does repairs on motors.

 

If you can't get the old one fixed up an easier way might be to seal up the old one with the epoxy and drill and tap an new hole close by. Make sure you have the correct tap and plug before you start. This way you could go with a US plug f you wanted. Who realy cares if there is another hole under the diff.

Good Luck,
Rob

 

Razor...how do you like the Suzuki DR-Z400? I'm kinda thinking of adding a dualsport to the stable and I've heard some impressive things. I'm a tech at a Honda dealer but they're offering nothing right now and I'm not necessarily gonna wait.

 

hello
thank you all for your responses. i tapped it out yesterday evening to 5/16 and installed a new bolt. everything looks fine. i filled it up and drained it again, but its so darn cold here in wv right now the oil came out reeeeeeeeaaaaaaaaalllllllllll slow. i plugged it and filled it up again and am going to ride it a while this weekend and then change it again while the fluid is warm. the reason i decide to change it was when i was in 1 going to 2 sometimes it wouldnt shift. i would have to stop and then change gears. it only happens now and then but thinking on it the gears dont have anything to do with this, it must be the ES. the bike has 1200 miles on it and the gear case oil had never been changed so decided to change it. the front is making a small whinning noise i think i might change the front differential this weekend. this time i will make sure to be extra careful with the drain bolt. have a merry christmas and a good rest of the hunting year!
sean

oh yeah just curious, what kind of mileage can i expect from my honda, you know like when a car gets to 100,000 its got some high miles. whats a honda with high miles? 5000, 10,000 ????

 

I've seen Ranchers with over 10,000 miles on them at some of the farms around here.

 

As for the shifting problem, your ANGLE SENSOR is most likely at fault as this occurs on some ES models. I am told it is an easy replacement, and is only like $32 for the sensor. You may get more diagnostic info on here from other info to better diagnose the problem.

Ranchers are one of the most reliable quads I have ever heard of along with the rest of the family like the Foreman, TRX300, and Recon.........AMAZING is an understatement.

10,000 miles! That is awesome! Honda should replace those with new ones and use those for their ads.......What a promo![img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-cool.gif[/img]

 

I've got the exact same fourwheeler, but it is a manual shift:
I did the exact same thing you did about three days ago. I couldn't believe a simple 30 minute front and rear differential oil change that only cost the price of a quart of gear oil could turn out so horribly wrong. I only hand tightened the rear diff. drain plug with a 1/4" ratchet and it never even got close to being tight when it suddenly became really easy to turn. I backed it out and there was a single alluminum thread clinging to the bolt. DAMN! This was the day before a planned ride so I just tightened it up as much as I could by hand, pumped silicone all over the head of the bolt, put the skid plate back on, and then put more silicone through the access hole in the skid plate. I checked it after the ride and all the oil was still intact, so I guess that the bolt doesn't have to be tight to hold the oil in, which is good, but the bolt could still rattle off. I know the silicone is just a quick last-minute half-*** fix but it worked and kept the bolt in place.
I just found and joined this forum site and hope some of the suggestions you got will help me. I was thinking about using some loc-tite form-a-thread compound but nobody on the web seems to speak very highly of it. If tapping the hole with a larger size worked for you I might try to follow in your footsteps but I think I will at least try to use the same size tap and see if it can repair the remaining threads since I think I only lost about 2. I don't know if you use or have a torque wrench, but Iv'e been to every autoparts store and all over the web to find out what kind is best or what I should get. The best ones cost several hundred dollars or more which is way the hell more than I can afford. I wanted one in Newton Meters or Inch-pounds which are the units used in the Rancher manual for most small components or ones that thread into alluminum. Sears sells one that reads both, for about $74. I bout it yesterday and tried it out today. It is worth every penny, very easy to use, damn I wish I had gotten one last week!