If you can, it might pay to search someone out that uses a certified quality Torque wrench to double check your Husky. Either that or send it to be certified. It may or may not be accurate, close or not so accurate at all. Even quality Torque wrenches are rated as being only 80% accurate on the lower 20% settings. Usually they will be within 2% in the upper 80% of the torque range.

I only caution you as a employee of mine has a generic Torque wrench he used to set something at 20 lbs. (had the same 25 to 250 in lbs ratings). I believe there were 5 bolts involved. We used our certified Snap-On digital torque wrench (which we have calibrated annually) to get an idea of how tight things were getting. When the generic was clicking off at 20 lbs., the snap-on would click off at anywhere from 50 to 75 lbs. I also prefer a fine click in my ratchet heads which is the only reason I mentioned the SK, that and it has checked out to be pretty darned accurate on the lower settings, especially for the price.

Some folks may not know this about a torque wrench so I'll just throw it out there. ALWAYS reset the torque wrench to 0 after you are done using it. And NEVER adjust any torque wrench more than one full turn UNDER or OVER its min./max. settings. Leaving a torque wrench tightened up will weaken the spring causing inaccurate measurement settings. Leaving it too loose and you'll find yourself tightening things too much.

Also when dealing with these minuscule torque settings, try using finger pressure when operating your torque wrench. If you grab it with your entire hand, momentum and reflex will most likely carry the torque of something that is supposed to be 3 lbs. all the way to 6 lbs., no matter how cautious a person thinks they are being. I found this out when I first used the Digital Snap-On wrench. It vibrates when a designated torque setting is reached, and it flashes on the display, the setting at which you let off (not the setting you set). I thought I was taking it easy when torque lug nuts to 75 lbs. just waiting for the buzz, when I checked, I had taken it to 79. some odd pounds. It also displays what the torque is at throughout the entire pull, but they are pricey!

 

The valve adjustment is definitely something you can do yourself. You will probably find you give much more attention to detail when you work on your ATV compared to what a dealer mechanic will.

I highly recommend investing in a good quality torque wrench. I went ahead and invested in a 3/8" Snap On click torque wrench, which comes calibrated, and it has worked really well.

If you are going to ride aggressively, and especially through mud and water, you will want to do as much of your own servicing as possible or it's going to get VERY expensive for you. I found servicehonda.com to have the lowest prices on parts.

 

How can you use a torque wrench on the valve locknut if you need to hold a screwdriver on the screws while tightening the locknuts? Torque wrench means socket Which means the slot for the screw will be covered up. I am doing this in the morning.

 

You can use a crow’s foot, which is an open end wrench with a ratchet drive adapter. The torque specs I believe are 12 ft lbs. on those lock nuts. That is about the equivalent to snugged up with an end wrench (with hand in middle of end wrench not at the end).

I just got through doing mine. I'll save you some time looking for the cylinder head cover torque specs. There isn't any! The manual says to simply tighten the cylinder head cover bolts and that is it. However, in the front of the manual it give standard torque values for different thread sizes for nuts and bolts. I believe the thread size of the cylinder ehad bolt is 6mm and according to the manual the standard torque value is 7 ft lbs.

BTW, neither of my mahcines were in need of adjustment after the first 200 miles (I didn't check them at the initial 100 mile interval). When linning up the "T" in the time mark hole, you still need to make sure you have play in the rockers. If the "T" is lined up and the rockers are tight, turn the flywheel one revolution and realign the "T", this should give you play in the rockers which indicates the compression stroke.

 

So simple and rancher starts so much easier now they were so tight I could not even get a .004 feeler in them. How often do you guys adjust yours?

 

When You Torque down the Bolt make sure you keep the Feeler guage in, if you don't you will mess up, and the Valve will be too tight, which is not good.

It doesn't take much to torque them down, I believe its 12 Ftlb or so. Not much at all. After your done, remove the Feeler Guage and do the other Valve. Simple really.

 

Thanks but I have them done now and it was simple took about 2 hrs all together but next time will be alot less. How often you guys adjust the valves the manual says every 100 hrs.

 

My maintenance schedule says initially at 100 hours and then every 600 hours.

 

I do mine once a year, right after hunting season before it put it away, i change the oil then too. All fresh for the spring then [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]