After having a chance this weekend to get working on the 96 300ex I bought last week I have noticed a few problems. I am having trouble with it turning over. The start button doesnt work all the time. I have checked all connections and everything has power. I replaced the solenoid thinking it was bad but the only way to start it when the button doesnt work is to jump the solenoid and it turns right over. The Clymer manual suggests it could possibly be the reverse inhibitor causing this but I want to be sure before I replace it.

The previous owner told me the clutch was slipping and would probably need to be replaced. When I hold the lever in and put it in gear the bike creeps forward like the clutch isnt disengaging all the way. I tried adusting the cable as much as possible but it still did not help. Im guessing a new clutch kit will fix this?

Another thing I noticed yesterday while testing it out was when the motor is running and at a stop if I shift through all the gears I cannot get it to go back to neutral and the shifting feels very notchy not smooth like I hear everyone say they are like. I replaced the oil yesterday with Mobil1 MX4T. I hope the tranny isnt bad but could the above problem also be causing this?

Thanks for any info.

 

If the clutch isnt disengageing completely...it will be hard to find nuetral when the motor is running. Ill bet when the clutch is fixed, the shifting will improve. Its probably got warped steel plates.

Did you check over the connections good at the reverse inhibitor?any corrorded or heavily oxidized? Im not sure why it would be intermitent..it would either work or not work, but i dont think it would come and go. The ignition switch, or starter button may be bad, Try grounding the yel/green, wire coming from the starter relay, and then try starting it. This will bypass the reverse inhibitor. If you still have an intermitent starting problem, it isnt the reverse inhibitor.

Theres a procedure for checking the reverse inhibtor in the clymer, on page 42 and 43.

 

Thanks, that is exactly the info I wanted to know. Once I get a new clutch kit installed it would make sense for it to fix the shifting issues. As for the reverse inhibitor, nothing was corroded or even dirty in the plug or fittings. I used some electronic cleaner on the contacts but still didnt seem to fix the problem. Its actually starting fine right now with the button, it just comes and goes. The Clymer manual suggests using a ohm meter to test the inhibitor but mine doesnt have the RX 1 setting they say to use. Again thanks for the reply very helpful. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

If your ohmmeter doesnt have the rx1 setting,, use whatever is close. All youre looking for is continuity...either its a short or an open, you wont actually be measuring any resistance, just whether the connection is made or not.