Foreman or Rubicon???
#11
This may sound stupid, but how do you get increased articulation using wheel spacers? I can see getting greater wheel travel with longer arms and shocks. I understand the wider stance for increased stability in off camber situation. Please explain, as I could be missing something!
#12
<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: athlon450
This may sound stupid, but how do you get increased articulation using wheel spacers? I can see getting greater wheel travel with longer arms and shocks. I understand the wider stance for increased stability in off camber situation. Please explain, as I could be missing something!</end quote></div>
Think of it this way. If you extend the A-arms you can get more swing on the ends. The wheel spacers are an extension to the A-arms.
Draw a ( < ) with each line 15" measure the distance between each line at 5" at 10" and 15" and you can see that the distance is much greater at 15" out than at 5" out.
As the wheel moves up, it is creating a larger arc because it is 1" further out from the pivot point of the A-arm. If I extended the wheel out 10" the travel would be extreme to say the least. Draw a circle 10" in diameter and one 11", which one is bigger, if you cut a piece of pie out of the 10" to include the 11" the 11" would be broader.
I hope I explained it correctly.
Another thought. If you moved the bottom connection of your shock 1" closer to the differential (center of vehicle) on your A-arm you would not only raise the machine but also increase the travel of the wheel, additionally you would also soften the ride.
This may sound stupid, but how do you get increased articulation using wheel spacers? I can see getting greater wheel travel with longer arms and shocks. I understand the wider stance for increased stability in off camber situation. Please explain, as I could be missing something!</end quote></div>
Think of it this way. If you extend the A-arms you can get more swing on the ends. The wheel spacers are an extension to the A-arms.
Draw a ( < ) with each line 15" measure the distance between each line at 5" at 10" and 15" and you can see that the distance is much greater at 15" out than at 5" out.
As the wheel moves up, it is creating a larger arc because it is 1" further out from the pivot point of the A-arm. If I extended the wheel out 10" the travel would be extreme to say the least. Draw a circle 10" in diameter and one 11", which one is bigger, if you cut a piece of pie out of the 10" to include the 11" the 11" would be broader.
I hope I explained it correctly.
Another thought. If you moved the bottom connection of your shock 1" closer to the differential (center of vehicle) on your A-arm you would not only raise the machine but also increase the travel of the wheel, additionally you would also soften the ride.
#13
Buck: Good explaination. I'm thinking of getting the spacers either 1" or 1 1/2", after I get the 2" lift. That will help keep it stable after raising the center of gravity 2". Not to mention the add articulation. After that comes the winch. Then comes new rims and taller tires. "Keeping in mind what you explained about the front tires doing a different job than the back tires.
Listen to buck guys. He has thought it out and understands the mathmatic, geometric, and scientific reasons why ihis ideas work.
Listen to buck guys. He has thought it out and understands the mathmatic, geometric, and scientific reasons why ihis ideas work.
#14
<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>Originally posted by: SuperCooper
Buck: Good explaination. I'm thinking of getting the spacers either 1" or 1 1/2", after I get the 2" lift. That will help keep it stable after raising the center of gravity 2". Not to mention the add articulation. After that comes the winch. Then comes new rims and taller tires. "Keeping in mind what you explained about the front tires doing a different job than the back tires.
Listen to buck guys. He has thought it out and understands the mathmatic, geometric, and scientific reasons why ihis ideas work.</end quote></div>
Thanks for the vote of confidence and the compliments. I guess after 45 years of 4x4 (jeeps, utility, pickups etc), stock-cars, drag racing. I guess something stuck in my brain - and all this time I thought I was brain dead - (Oops, I mean that is what my Ex said lol....)
Have you considered 'High-Lifter' springs as a way to lift your machine. It may not upset your geometry as much as a bolt on lift kit.
Second thought to keep in mind. Tall tires have tall side walls and are more likely to roll under in off-camber or hard turn situations. On a vehicle a low profile is always more stable (50 series car tires as apposed to 70 series).
Just thoughts for you to consider before spending your bucks and being unsatisfied. Maybe setting your machine up for what you will be doing 90% of the time and not worry about the other 10% is a consideration. With the new laws and designated trails are you going to be able to utilize your changes to your satisfaction? Remember , most everything is a trade off. When you improve one area you probably will have to give up something. Don't give up something that you could use 90% of the time just to be able to utilize it's benefits 10% of the time. It would be sad to build up a "Big-Foot" that could drive over cars and have the laws limit you to only driving over toy cars.
Anyway, good luck with your project.
Buck: Good explaination. I'm thinking of getting the spacers either 1" or 1 1/2", after I get the 2" lift. That will help keep it stable after raising the center of gravity 2". Not to mention the add articulation. After that comes the winch. Then comes new rims and taller tires. "Keeping in mind what you explained about the front tires doing a different job than the back tires.
Listen to buck guys. He has thought it out and understands the mathmatic, geometric, and scientific reasons why ihis ideas work.</end quote></div>
Thanks for the vote of confidence and the compliments. I guess after 45 years of 4x4 (jeeps, utility, pickups etc), stock-cars, drag racing. I guess something stuck in my brain - and all this time I thought I was brain dead - (Oops, I mean that is what my Ex said lol....)
Have you considered 'High-Lifter' springs as a way to lift your machine. It may not upset your geometry as much as a bolt on lift kit.
Second thought to keep in mind. Tall tires have tall side walls and are more likely to roll under in off-camber or hard turn situations. On a vehicle a low profile is always more stable (50 series car tires as apposed to 70 series).
Just thoughts for you to consider before spending your bucks and being unsatisfied. Maybe setting your machine up for what you will be doing 90% of the time and not worry about the other 10% is a consideration. With the new laws and designated trails are you going to be able to utilize your changes to your satisfaction? Remember , most everything is a trade off. When you improve one area you probably will have to give up something. Don't give up something that you could use 90% of the time just to be able to utilize it's benefits 10% of the time. It would be sad to build up a "Big-Foot" that could drive over cars and have the laws limit you to only driving over toy cars.
Anyway, good luck with your project.
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