What oil do you guys recommend ? I have just ran my first hole tank of gas through my new 400ex. I have decided to change out the break in oil . I am wondering what kind of oil you guys like . I have ran Amsoil , rotella T 15w-40 , Honda , polaris and other oilsbefore. Just wondering what you guys recommend in a 400EX ?
Is it too early to go to a fully synthetic like Amsoil ?
Thanks,
D.

 

Good basic oil info: http://forums.atvconnection.co...ht_key=y&keyword1=oil


I always run a petroleum oil for the first 20 hours, then switch to synthetic after that. I use Maxima Premium, or Honda GN4 if I couldn't find Maxima.

If you pick a motorcycle oil that is API SG/JASO MA, you can't go far wrong. Beyond that, the synthetics have advantages over petroleum oil, and the ester synthetics have advantages over the other two types of synthetics.

My favorite oil is Maxima Extra, ester based 100% synthetic. It is about $8 per liter (a little bigger than a quart). If I need to save money somewhere, I don't try to do it by using cheapie oil!

 

Reconranger is something of an oil aficionado, as I've read a number of his posts on this topic, and I respect anyone who cares enough for his machines to buy the very best oil based on their own knowledge and research.

As one option less expensive than full synthetic oil, I am using Castrol act-evo 4-stroke motorcycle oil which is rated API-SG and JASO-MA, and it has some synthetic additives. An unexpected benefit is that it seems to have made my transmission shift smoother than it did with the regular non-synthetic Castrol 4-stroke m/c oil, also rated API-SG and JASO-MA.

It's available on the Cycle Gear Site Here
for $3.99 per liter(quart). I ordered 6 liters for two oil changes costing about $30 with shipping, so the cost works out to $5 per liter with shipping ... had it in two days.

 

I am thinking of running Rottella T 15W-40 in the 400EX . Does anyone have a negative comment about this oil ? It doesn't have the friction modifiers and stands up well . I have ran it in street motorcycles with wet clutches and have not had a problem. But , never in an atv.
Thanks,
D.

 

I use AMSOIL 10w-40 full synthetic. Its the best brand name oil for atv's/dirtbikes/sleds in my opinion. I was using Kawasaki 10w40 for the first 2 oil changes then switched. I noticed lots of little bubbles in the kawi oil after i drove in -20 degrees celcuis lol. None with the Amsoil. May cost more but its worth it in my eyes.

 

<div class="FTQUOTE"><begin quote>I am thinking of running Rottella T 15W-40 in the 400EX . Does anyone have a negative comment about this oil ? It doesn't have the friction modifiers and stands up well . I have ran it in street motorcycles with wet clutches and have not had a problem. But , never in an atv. </end quote></div>
I use this oil in everything from lawn mowers to 600+ HP engines. Not one issue. It's a very good oil. I've torn down engines with well over 200K on them and the bearings look like new. Good enough for me, for about 2 bucks a quart.

 

Here is my take on Rotella: Being a "heavy 40", it is allowed to have more ZDDP than a "light 40" oil. Still, it doesn't have as much as an API SG oil, so it still doesn't have the optimal amount.

Second, the synthetic is group III, which in terms of chemistry is less desireable than either PAO or ester. The only advantage it has is price, and oil isn't really that expensive compared to many other things in life (like a rebuild!), so I sure don't let a few dollars become the limiting factor in my oil choices...and I have 7 quads to keep in oil, where most of you have only one or two!

Third, all the "diesel" oils are getting reformulated. In the future, they will have even less ZDDP than they have now...a step backward, not a step forward!

Maxima oils whether petroleum, blend, or synthetic have the highest levels of ZDDP in the industry, so that is where I prefer to look for my oils...no guesswork involved!

http://www.maximausa.com/techn...enews/LubeNews2002.pdf

 

I've always used Valvoline 10w-40 from walmart. LOL! My quads get beat on every time they get ridden, and I'm on the original clutch on all of them.

 

Walmart......Valvoline 4X Motorcycle oil.....$2.32 Quart......No need to get ripped off by dealers for the same oil

Oil Dealers Comments
Various comments as made to Toa by oil dealers, manufacturers and distributors

Bel-Ray
11 August '99 All of us motorcycle specific oil manufacturers have always stated not to use automotive oil in motorcycles. As of late everyone is now saying that too including: magazine editors, automotive oil manufacturers and OEMs. It all started with the introduction of API SJ rated motor oils. The Energy Conserving specs do not allow the use of certain anti-wear materials like zinc for instance. So to make up for those missing anti-wear ingredients they add Friction Modifiers and these are known to make wet clutches slip.
API SJ is fairly new and already JASO has stepped in with their MA and MB certifications because of the large problems that the API SJ ratings have caused in regards to wet clutch slippage. Castrol and Mobil are huge automotive oil manufacturers as you know and they have recently entered the US market with their motorcycle specific motor oils. They also recommend to use motorcycle specific motor oils and not auto oil for motorcycles. If you compare the price of MOBIL 1 for autos to their comprable full synthetic oil for motorcycles you will see a huge price difference. Rightly so because it is not the same oil in a different bottle, it is a special formula designed for motorcycles and it goes way beyond the clutch issue. You'll find the same true with Castrol. The OEMs like your friends at Kawasaki have already got on the JASO MA band wagon and are recommending it for motor oils with the API SJ approval. Unfortunately the JASO spec only relates to clutch slippage but what about the other issues like the high anti-wear properties of motorcycle oils or the high flash points because they must work in air-cooled, oil-cooled and water-cooled engines. High flash points mean no oil volatility. What about the polymers used that can withstand the shredding effects of transmission gears so you will hold your viscosity rating. I could go on and on.