Rancher 350 ES - Battery Drain
#1
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2006 Honda Rancher 350 Elect Shift is drawing 5 amps just sitting. Problem started with blown 30 amp main fuse...replaced but power still drained. Must pull starts and shift manually. Honda dealer in Richmond (Cliff's...now Virginia Honda Yamaha) had it for 2 weeks and could not fix. Anyone had similar issues?
#2
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k u can try disconnecting neg. cable on Batt. put a test light between batt. & lead light should light if there is a drain then disconnect one thing at a time plugs, whatever.. if the light goes out you have isolated the problem area then just track from there and you should be able to find out what is stayin' on or shorted? Dennis
#3
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That's the easiest way to test... Put in a charged battery and jump in a test light or amp meter between the negative battery post and negative battery cable and pull fuses or unhook components until the drain goes away.
Are there any electrical aftermarket accessories hooked up? If so, start with those.
Next, with the key off, I would start by unhooking the regulator/rectifier. If the drain goes away, there's your fault.
If the drain does not go away, you likely have a short in the wiring harness, or a defective ignition switch, since nothing else should be powered when the ignition switch is off.
If you unhook the ignition switch (with the regulator/rectifier still unhooked) and the drain is still there, it would pretty much mean it's in the wiring harness. If careful visual inspection doesn't show what got melted or smashed, try wiggling things to see if you can make the draw go away...
In your case, I would say odds are you will find a short in the wiring harness (since it blew the main fuse previously).
Good luck with it, and welcome to the forum.
Are there any electrical aftermarket accessories hooked up? If so, start with those.
Next, with the key off, I would start by unhooking the regulator/rectifier. If the drain goes away, there's your fault.
If the drain does not go away, you likely have a short in the wiring harness, or a defective ignition switch, since nothing else should be powered when the ignition switch is off.
If you unhook the ignition switch (with the regulator/rectifier still unhooked) and the drain is still there, it would pretty much mean it's in the wiring harness. If careful visual inspection doesn't show what got melted or smashed, try wiggling things to see if you can make the draw go away...
In your case, I would say odds are you will find a short in the wiring harness (since it blew the main fuse previously).
Good luck with it, and welcome to the forum.
#4
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Thanks for the responses! There are no aftermarket hook-ups...and it ended up being the regulater/rectifier drawing the current. Replaced (or should admit had someone else replace) and on my way to the woods in VA this weekend for a black powder hunt. No more dragging deer!!!! Thanks again...very helpful!
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