Break in procedure in detail
#1
Break in procedure in detail
Ok guys. Im going to Destin, FL tonight and there for 5 days...when I get back, Im getting an 08 rancher ES 2x4. I was wondering if I could get a run down of how to break it in properly. Ive seen a couple posts on here that kinda explain it...but just hoping for one last detailed list. This is what ive heard so far.
1. Warm up the quad.
2. Run it hard. Up hills and down hills.
3. Do that about three times...then shut it off...let it cool completely....and repeat.
4. After about 20 miles..change the oil. (what is a good kind of oil to use at this time?)
Anything else? or any other suggestions? Thanks for your help. I probably wont see the replies on this till I am back and tan.
1. Warm up the quad.
2. Run it hard. Up hills and down hills.
3. Do that about three times...then shut it off...let it cool completely....and repeat.
4. After about 20 miles..change the oil. (what is a good kind of oil to use at this time?)
Anything else? or any other suggestions? Thanks for your help. I probably wont see the replies on this till I am back and tan.
#3
Break in procedure in detail
read your owners manual i have an eiger and the manual said the first month and 10 hours is the most crucial;it said do not run more than half throttle vary throttle speed very often (what i did was go on fast rides through the woods and do alot of breaking and accelerating weaving in and out of trees)
#4
Break in procedure in detail
The owners manual states to put 100 miles on the quad then change the oil and do a complete servcing , including checking and ajusting the valve clearance if needed ; but with the breakin oil i would change it at least 50 mile's for the oil and oil filter !
There's no need to stop and cool down the engine completely when breaking in a 4 stroke engine , that's for 2 stroke engine's ; 4 stroke's don't require this proceedure during breakin !
I would also clean and relube the air filter at the same time , and vary the speed and not go over half throddle untill the first 100 mile's ; and as far as oil i would use a good 10w40 oil SAE API SE or SF for wet sump motorcycle ATV engine's !
Avoid the energy saving oil's , some will tell you to change to a synthetic blend oil ; that's up to you to deside there are many good oil's on the market to choose from !......
There's no need to stop and cool down the engine completely when breaking in a 4 stroke engine , that's for 2 stroke engine's ; 4 stroke's don't require this proceedure during breakin !
I would also clean and relube the air filter at the same time , and vary the speed and not go over half throddle untill the first 100 mile's ; and as far as oil i would use a good 10w40 oil SAE API SE or SF for wet sump motorcycle ATV engine's !
Avoid the energy saving oil's , some will tell you to change to a synthetic blend oil ; that's up to you to deside there are many good oil's on the market to choose from !......
#5
Break in procedure in detail
Honda isn't ever going to recommend anything but a very gentle break-in. Why...they don't want the liability of you jumping on a brand new bike you aren't use to, and getting yourself hurt and then sue them!
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
I use the Motoman method, and I think the sequence you listed was probably from one of my other posts. Fortunately, I have very steep hills behind my house where I can do great break-in riding. I do the hillclimb and descent thing with lots of engine braking, because it causes high compression and that is what is going to seat those rings properly!
I disagree that heat cycling is not important.....hey it sure won't hurt!
I do a very early oil/filter change, to get any metal shavings out of the engine. (Actually, the Hondas and Suzukis I have owned come very clean from the factory. All the Yamahas have been absolutely filthy! I just got an new XT225, and after 1 hr of riding, the oil filter was absolutely loaded with metal shavings and clutch fibers.)
Change out the differential and rear drive oil early on, for the same reason.
Do a clutch and valve adjustment at 20 hours.
Good oil reads: http://www.thumperfaq.com/oil.htm
http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0308_oil/index.html
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
I use the Motoman method, and I think the sequence you listed was probably from one of my other posts. Fortunately, I have very steep hills behind my house where I can do great break-in riding. I do the hillclimb and descent thing with lots of engine braking, because it causes high compression and that is what is going to seat those rings properly!
I disagree that heat cycling is not important.....hey it sure won't hurt!
I do a very early oil/filter change, to get any metal shavings out of the engine. (Actually, the Hondas and Suzukis I have owned come very clean from the factory. All the Yamahas have been absolutely filthy! I just got an new XT225, and after 1 hr of riding, the oil filter was absolutely loaded with metal shavings and clutch fibers.)
Change out the differential and rear drive oil early on, for the same reason.
Do a clutch and valve adjustment at 20 hours.
Good oil reads: http://www.thumperfaq.com/oil.htm
http://www.sportrider.com/tech/146_0308_oil/index.html
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