I have +2+1arms on my440ex and i tend to push in the corners i talked to one guy that told me he had the same problem so he went to just +2s has anyone had this problem if so is there anyway i can fix it without getting new a arms

 

Have you checked your air presser in the front tires? Try dropping them down a pound, test & repeat until fixed. But don't go below 2lbs or you'll pop a bead. Are they stock tires? Stockers are vary soft, should bit with proper presser.
Let us know what happens.

 

i run radials i bought a new pair. groved outside to see if that would make a difference for this season only had a chance to run them one time in ST Louis so im not for sure how there going to work,any other suggestions

 

I have +2 std. forward a-arms and Riken radials on my R chassis and don't have any problem with pushing. Most people claim the +1 forward will actually help carve the turn, not make it worse. What do you have the caster, camber, and toe-in set at? If one or more of these is out of adjustment it will affect the way the quad turns. You should also check the alignment of both front tires. The condition of the soil will also affect how much push you get. All quads have trouble with the front end sliding when riding at speed on a slippery surface such as wet hard-pack clay.

 

do you have any pictures of your 350x in the 250r frame, just wondering?? I bet it's awesome

 

do you know what the camber,caster should be set at.

 

Click on the link in my signature for pictures. I just posted several pictures of my quad. Let me know what you think.

 

Camber - Baldwin Motorsports recommends no more than 5/8" tilted in at the top of the tire to keep from binding and breaking the ball joints. Measure this by placing a carpenters square against the tire. Note: After adjusting camber you can determine if you are binding the ball joints by un-hooking your lower shock mount and moving the a-arm through the full amount of travel. You definately want some amount of negative camber (tilted in at top) to help with turning.
Caster - Some aftermarket a-arms do not offer any adjustment of caster. You did not mention which brand you have so I don't know about yours. My Lonestar a-arms do have caster adjustment, but I have left it at the standard setting and have not experimented with changing it. Caster is the angle of the spindle in relation to the vertical center line of the wheel and I think most riders would be better off not messing with it.
Toe-in - My 250R service manual recommends from 0 to -.4". I set mine at -.25" (front of tires closer together than rear of tires). You definately want some amount of negative toe-in to help with turning.

I would recommend checking all of your front end settings before even thinking about buying new a-arms. If you find anything out of adjustment you may be able to save yourself lots of money. Let me know if you have any more questions.

 

I have +2+1 LoneStar on my 400EX. I had a little push and solved the problem by putting a little more pre-load on the rear shock to raise the rear of the quad. The longer a-arms raise the front of the quad thus, shifting the weight of the bike and rider to the rear. This is a quick and easy experiment. If it gets better but doesn't fix it totally, you can also take a little pre-load off the front shocks. i would only recommend this if you have adjustable shocks and can increase the compression dampening to compensate for the softer spring setting. Good luck!