I know this has been beaten to death, but please bear with me. I have a 2000 450 ES with, yes, you guessed it, a shift problem. I have read and read and cannot find a solution. I don't know how many posts I have read where the poster doesn't come back and tell everyone what the problem was. Local Honda shop no use either, unless I bring the bike in. Here is the problem.

ES shift buttons quit working. It seems I can sometimes cycle the key and get the ECM reset. When manually shifted or button shifted, with the bike NOT running,the display shows R,N,,-,-,-,5. When the bike is then started it will display correctly. R,N,1,2,3,4,5. When the buttons do work I can shift up and down as much as I want, with the bike running or not. I think I just about killed the battery trying to get it to fail with the bike not running. It would not fail. I can ride the bike with VERY little throttle input and it will not fail. When you give it too much throttle it fails. If you are in 2,3, or 4, the display changes to -. If you are in any other gear it just stays in that gear and will not shift. I can manually shift it back to neutral, shut the bike off, start the bike but do not try the shift buttons and NO throttle input, turn the bike off, and restart it again. Then the buttons work again. It seems the key here is to start the bike and turn it off again, then restart. Cycling the key without restarting will not do it. I can even make it fail in reverse and also in neutral, just by revving the engine up.

Here is what I have tried to do to fix the problem. New battery, new angle sensor, new shift control motor, clutch adjustment, and engine oil change. Also checked certain connections at the ecm for proper voltage and continuity. Checked voltage at angle sensor. Everything checks out OK. Also, the speedometer appears to display correctly. No false readings.

I need some help here. Sorry this is such a long post, but you should know about everything that I have done first. I am leaning towards a speed sensor, but I am tired of throwing parts at this and not having them stick, if you know what I mean. I have a Clymers manual and it is pointing towards a faulty ECM, but I remember reading that they hardly ever fail.

Hondamechanic, if you read this I remember coming across a supplement to a Honda service manual that helps troubleshoot these problems that you posted. There was mention of performing a speed sensor test, but it does not tell you how to do it. It refers you to a page ? on a microfiche. Would you happen to have that test? Any other ideas?

Thanks in advance.....
Dan

 

Is this the ESP tests you have ..

================================================== ================================

 

Hondamechanic,
No this is not the one I was thinking of, but it may prove to be very useful. The one I was thinking of is the Shop Talk Special Edition in the following thread. http://forums.atvconnection.com/hond...-need-pro.html
What I don't understand is that once the ecm is reset, everything works until you move the bike. Then it takes shutting off the bike, RESTARTING and shutting off again, to reset the ecm. Just cycling the key doesn't reset it. That is why I am now leaning towards a speed sensor, but the speed indicated on the display isn't off. I don't think that going through all the above steps will reveal anything unless I move the bike. Sometimes it takes 3 feet, sometimes 20 yards. Other times, if I am really light on the throttle, I can go for 1/2 mile or more. When I say light on the throttle I am talking 10% or less throttle input. Is there a specific test for the speed sensor? Any other thoughts?

Thanks again in advance......
Dan

 

Well, I don't give up easy but this one is over my head. I have put about 16 + hours into this, plus computer time. I found the test for the speed sensor in the manual. You need special connectors etc. Plus, I couldn't even figure out how to unplug the speed sensor connector. There must be a special tool or something. I thought I was going to break it trying. There comes a time when enough is enough. I think it is going into the dealer for repair.

I have, however, discovered a couple more things. When I first start it up and just ride it, I can go about 1/2 to 3/4 of a mile before it acts up. I did this twice tonight. Full throttle shifts and the whole nine yards. The display still shows dashes when the bike is not running though. The speedo never once showed any signs of being out of whack. So, I think I have a malfunction somewhere that shuts down the ES only after it gets warm? Also, does anybody know if the regulator rectifier is supposed to get warm? It is mounted under the rear fender on the rear frame, opposite the muffler. No exhaust heat any where near it, but it was still warm to the touch. Not hot, just warm. Is this normal?