i have a 84 200es sometimes it will start right up and sometimes it wont.sometimes it will run and then you can try it 5 minutes later and it will not throw a spark. or it will be running and just quit firing and shut off. sometimes it will start right back up. and sometimes it may be 3 or 4 days before it will go again. so far i have changed the primary coil behind the flywheel. ive tried a different cdi pulser and it didnt help. ive done my best to test the continuity of all my wiring to my cdi box, coil, etc. has anyone else ran into this problem ? or can someone post the testing procedures so that i can check my ignition coil and other things. i have tried to find a cdi box to try, but havent had any luck. i may just have to end up buying one to rule my out as being bad...thanks

 

I've got 3 of those and 2 run great. The other one sounds just like yours. I cant trust it out of it's parking spot. After spending 30 hrs getting my emt license renewal I figured I'd try to figure THIS stuff out.....again..for the 10th time. Gremlins got me outsmarted. yea right! 20 hrs later all I can say is I know LESS than before I started. Make sure your grounds are happy. I'm going to go check stuff now since the suns out and cross check with parts from my known working bike. But come to think of it, I already did that a few months ago and the same thing happens so I put the cdi, coil. pulse etc etc back on the working bike and that one works every time. So I guess what I'm saying is..you could have all known working elect components to swap out and it may still not work. That/s not to say there isn't an intermittent shorting of an internal coil wire or something The battery/lighting system IS separate from the ignition system but they do share common grounding areas. Coil bolts to the frame need to be paint and rust free, for instance. Reverse switch will cut off your spark if it shorts out periodically as will the kill switch. Mind you (us) that any of the kill circuits are simply avenues to ground. In other words, I have a bike someone cut ALL the wires to either sell or steal the headlight and the sucker fires right up. so like the kill switch does not necessarily need to be in the ON position as it is not an ON but rather a LACK of ground to allow it to fire. Stepping on the brake can kill the engine but that's NOT because the brake light sucks juice, it's because it shares a grounding circuit. before I forget, if you look for cdi boxes, you'll see that the part numbers are the same for all the 90, 110, 185 200 etc so you should be able to find one cheap. Those 6 slot, 5 pin square connector ones are supposed to be all the same and there are Millions of them around the world. I got so frustrated a few weeks ago I bought a parts bike for 200$ and it runs great. Sure wish I knew what to tell you but I'll let you know what I find today. This one's either gonna run, or get sold for parts. I need the parking space for my new junker that runs. j heck, I cant even figure out how to get spaces between my sentences and paragraphs

 

thanks for the reply. this thing is drivin me crazy. i wished it would either run or not run. its a pain when you are trying to troubleshoot a problem, and all of a sudden it starts firing. when you havent done anything different to it.my cdi box has the round plug with 6 wires. a man brought me one earlier this week,the box has 6 wires but he had the wiring harness plug still in it, and it only came with 5 wires in it. i went ahead and plugged the box into my harness, but the reverse light comes on in the dash when i plug it in so apparently it wont work.i guess after i do try another cdi box, if it still has spells, that i will start a extremely aggressive round of testing on all of the firing system wires..but as of earlier today i had almost come to the decision of parting it and listing parts on ebay.since i have spent money in the last 3 weeks, for 2 new tires, rear brakes, bearings, and seal, front brakes, bearings, and seals, new battery, new brake cable, head light bulb,new air filter. and whatever i am forgetting. i am getting to deep to keep putting money into it.so listing parts may be what i do to try to recover some of my funds.

 

yupp yupp Its gonna be dark soon so I better get outside but will report back if I find anything. Check all your grounds oh the sliver lining of me giving up and buying that other bike for parts?? its a 250 sx and everything works. RAGING screamer, full suspension 200 bucks had a bad ground in the neutral circuit.

 

so I went outside, friend vrought little kids and we started a 30ft bonfire. I wanted to work on the bike but noooooooooo they left I walk up to the 200es no sparker, disconnected the battery pulled the plug and pulled the ripcord and it sparked. shot o' quick start and it started SOMEthing in the electric start circuit is stealing either current or ground from the ignition circuit. Mind you, the electric start works as it sould, light come up , neutral and reverse lites work etc etc but IT KILLS MY IGNITION SPARK wonder if theres a way to swap actual eamil without getting in trouble with the webmaster . I have to use my gf's computer and her chair sucks

 

ps the light/charging sircuits are supposed to be independent from the ignition circuit other than grounds. You can take your battery out and put it 10 feet away from the bike and it will run. See the previous post for conceptual clarity.

 

By the way.... I ohmed the stator coil and it showed a dead short instead of 200 ohms or what ever, i just dont care anymore. maybe thats part of the secret (shhhhhhhh) They supposedly put out 100 volts AC which goes to the cdi and is transformered up to 400 volts AC in that little box, then goes to the coil and goes up to 40,000 for the spark. I was gonna check stator OUTput on Lindas bike which runs, WHILE it was running but didn't even bother. (ac voltage up towards 100 VAC) Not necessarily recommended but so frustrated, I took the gas tank off and put it back on a bike that runs, took the battery out and put it back on a different bike that runs and for the he## of it, pulled the plug and it has spark for the first time in a year of messin' with it. and it fired up so fast it scared me. NO ohmage from the stator WTF? No spark? take the tank off and take the battery out and it will run? just who would believe THAT! (me)

 

well maybe the next time that mine throws a fit, i should disconnect the battery and give it a pull crank and see if i get a spark. but it may be several days of starting it up, before it throws another fit and quits firing.th ats one thing that makes it so frustrating.

 

I cant believe it either but thats what worked and got me spark. The lighting system must be sharing grounds because they are DESIGNED to run without any battery or lights or chargi circuit and shared grounds are their only commonality. I had to take out my new known working battery from a known working 200es to get mine to work. PLUS I had a zero ohm reading from my stator coil. sheeeeze! enough already with the stuff that dont add up, or make sense, eh? on this one, the 4 ignition key switch wires are hanging out separated by air, the kill switch wires were cut and hanging separated by air, and my 86 big red had the key ignition switch wires cut and are hanging separated by air space too. but that's the way they run, all this on off bs is just a kill it to ground kinda deal so technically there really IS no "ON" for the ignition. whew! i need a new hobby What state are you in? we're near the oregon dunes...42 square miles of 3 dimensional moonscape riding

 

For what it's worth, I have a 200X that has been doing the same thing. I finally chased it down to a bad ground. Under the light and kill switch there is a little tab thhat touches the handle bars for a ground for the kill switch. There was rust on the bars and switch. I just took some sand paper and sanded the tab and the bars down to metal. Now it starts just fine. No more problems. Good luck and enjoy. Jim