Hello,

My friends recently purchased a used 2004 Honda Rancher ES 4x4. It has about 1,000 miles on it. It wasn't exactly babied, but the price was good, and it seems real solid. Anyway, the guy we bough it from mentioned going through deep water with it, explaining why the engine was corroded, and what not. We decided to change all the fluids, because of this. We did the oil, and both front and rear differentials with new fluid. The front fluid looked fine, the rear diff fluid came out pretty milky.

So our problem, they brought the bike up to their second home in the woods, and they are telling me now that after about 15-20 mins the rear axel is squeaking real bad, like a metal on metal squeaking, coming from the differential. Unfortunately, I'm not there to help, and worse so, they left the gear oil here So they we're gonna check it again, but I'm pretty sure the level is OK. Assuming the level is low, will just topping it of be the solution? If the level is good, any thoughts on what it can be? Only thing I can possibly think of is a bearing? Just seems odd to me, especially since the bike doesn't have that many miles on it?

Just wondering if it is a bearing, how hard is it to replace? The parts don't seem that expensive, just wondering if it's a really involved job or not? Thanks!

 

Hello, the miles dont matter But the condition rode in does, I would check the rear brake shoes first than the left axle bearing [that hub go into]. no not to hard to replaced either parts. here brake shoes around 30 bucks and bout 50 bucks labor and left axle bearing and seal bout 30 bucks and 25 bucks labor.I guess the way to narrow down the location of noise would be to jack up the rearend and see if noise goes away while weight of atv is off the ground if does than see if the left axle has movement up and down.if noise is still there than loosen up the rear brake cables or remove the wing nuts. these two parts are the most common to go bad first. you just stated that rearend had milkly gear oil.so i would guess that the left axle bearing has movement in it due to the condition atv has been ridden in....Good Luck..

 

I agree, I've replaced the left axle bearing on a couple of them.

 

How difficult was the job? Do you mind telling me what it entails? I found the bearing on bikebandit its about $20. I'm wondering if I should replace the other bearing too while it's open? Do I need to grease or do anything to it? Or do I just replace the old one with the new one? Sorry if these are newbie questions, but I've never done this work, and I'd rather learn and do it myself than pay a shop a lot of money for labor if it's things I can do with a guide, tips and simple tools. Thanks!

 

Just looked at the bike, I don't think it's gonna be as easy as I though. How should I go about accessing the bearing with the minimal amount of work? Looks like I gotta remove the wheels, axel, etc?

 

Yes you need to remove the wheel and hub then you can access the seal and bearing. If it were me I would replace the bearings on both the left and right side. It will take you a couple of hours but save you headaches in the future. You will not need any special tools.

 

So all I need To do is remove the four bolts holding the rim on the hub, than remove the cotter pin and large nut, and I'll have access to the bearing and seals?

 

That's it

 

You also may have to remove the four nuts around the black axle houing and the bolts in the final drive rock skip plate after remove this the axle black tube should slide off than drive old bearing race out then install new parts.... note look for the bearing stopper... it looks like an wedge don,t throw away install back on before you put black axle tube back on.... this stopper surports the inner race when tighting up hub...... Good Luck..