I have a 1986 TRX250 that hasn't ran in probably 7 years. The ignition coil is the problem but I ordered a new one and it will be here next week. I have cleaned the carb thoroughly in preparation to getting this thing started. What else should I do before I try and fire this thing up? Should I go ahead and change the oil for good measure? I am also concerned about rust in the gas tank but I'm not too sure what I should do about that.

Thanks

 

Definately change the oil and transmission lube as well, condensation from sitting has most likely damaged the oil that is in there. As far as the tank, is it metal or plastic? if metal, you could always try throwing a handfull of nuts and washers in there and adding some gas and shake it around, getting all sides, this would scrub off any surface rust and scale, and a few rinses with some fresh gas and you would be pretty clean inside. I suppose dumping out all the nuts and such would be fun, but they also make a good chemical cleaner that strips rust out of old tanks. A good flashlight and a peek inside the cap should tell you if it is dirty in there or not. Pulling the petcock from the bottom and making sure the screens are clear would also be a good idea if it has sat that long, make sure it flows in both the ON and RESERVE settings, and seals up good on OFF. A cheap last line of defense for an older metal tank, or any tank for that matter, is adding an inline filter to the carb, to catch any loose or leftover dirt/rust you may not have seen.

 

ok. as far as transmission lube, do you mean rear gear oil? if not, can you explain where i would drain/refill transmission lube? The tank if metal and I can see rust in it so i will try your suggestions. does the petcock just unscrew from the tank? i know there is a bolt on the bottom of the switch i just haven't tried taking that off yet. ill try that tomorrow. well thanks again

 

If it is anything like my friends Banshee,the manual transmission should have a drain bolt and an fill port bolt, just behind the front sprocket area. His manual called for 30wt oil, but there are some nice transmission specific oils out there now that would do a lot better than the lubes available in the 80's.
As far as the petcock, if it is like my 300ex and 400ex, it should just thread out from the bottom, on my Yamaha, it is held in with 2 screws.
If your tank looks really rusty, you may want to look into a cleaner/sealer kit, it will contain a rust solvent, then an acid type etcher to clean and prep the metal, and a sealant that will prevent future rust and damage. Do NOT use the stuff like "Creme", basially a latex based goop you slosh around in there to cover the metal on the inside, never say anyone have long term good luck with that, seems to peel off in chunks and plugs up your fuel lines and such. Cant remember the name of the one my old dealer used, it was a 3 part solvent/clean,etch,prep/sealant that put a clear seal on the inside of the tank, metal was nice and shiny when done right, and stayed that way.
Hopefully some Honda racers will chime in, they would probably know a lot more than me.

 

Thanks for the tips! Just to clarify though it's not a trx250r, it's just a trx250 fourtrax. I will try and get it all done this week but it's been raining all day and its supposed to rain for the next 4 days. I will update every one as I progress with this project.

 

Oh, that changes a lot, then, as far as the transmission and such, that probably has a semi auto shift, oil for engine is the trans oil too, so that part you can forget. I just see 86 250, and think 250 R right away...

 

Haha oh ok. That makes since because I really didn't think there was separate transmission oil.

 

I took the bowl off the bottom of the petcock and cleaned it out. It was coated with varnish. What else should I clean in correlation to that valve?

Also, i need to replace the air filter as it has desentigrated. I don't know if I want to spit out $20+ bucks for a replacement so i was thinking about grabbing a lawnmower foam filter thats very similar to the original. My question is, what type of oil and how much should I put on the filter, if it is even a good idea to use a lawn mower foam filter?

Also, any suggestions for rear diff oil and engine oil?

Tomorrow I plan on changing the engine oil, rear diff oil, and cleaning out the gas tank. That is if it doesn't rain so bad I cant get out to the shed. If I get all this done and the ignition coil comes in I will attempt to start it up. Is there anything else I need to do besides: change oil, change rear diff oil, clean gas tank, clean carb, and get/make-do with a replacement air filter before I attempt to start it up?


Thanks for all the help everyone.

 

I think the lawn mower filter will work as long as there are no leaks, BUT, in the long run I think you should get a UNI. Also, for now, if you don't have air filter oil, just use any weight motor oil on the foam. Squish the oil into the foam and wring it out lightly, not completely. You want oil left in it, but not satutrated. But again, I think you should get a UNI and some oil filter oil. Check out Rocky Mountain ATV.

 

I have a quick question. If the ignition coil I have ordered does not fix the no spark problem, where should I look from there? I may be getting ahead of myself but I am very curious as to what to check if this doesn't work. I'm hoping the get the coil in tomorrow and I will have a definite answer as to if it will solve the problem or not but I really wouldn't know where to check from there.