TRX350EF Electronic shift issues
#11
One more thing. I read your earlier post. I don't know if it makes a difference what oil you use in a quad engine, but I know sportbikes use special oil because the additives, maybe zinc, keep the wetclutch working properly. Again I don't know what your owners manual says about it but thought Id throw it out there. And yeah I don't think oil type would make a difference for testing but I am not entirely sure. Good luck
#12
I have done lots of centrifugal clutches, they work fine until the shoes wear down to the metal backing, then they slip. You will have to take the cover off again to check this, so check the other clutch again if the centrifugal is OK. I'm doing a 400 auto at the moment, the Honda dealer quoted 15th Feb for new shoes to come!
I go for backing the adjuster off after you feel a slight resistance, the difference between this and really tight is only about 1/4 turn anyway.
I go for backing the adjuster off after you feel a slight resistance, the difference between this and really tight is only about 1/4 turn anyway.
#13
#14
Fit new springs anyway, as they are out of spec. Roughen the plates with a light sanding, using emery cloth. Do the same to the faces of the centrifugal shoes and drum. I had a Kawasaki that slipped, with clutch plates that were within spec, and was advised to do this, it worked fine afterwards. However your's is so bad I think something must be out, either notches in the clutch basket, warped plates (though this is more likely to cause drag than slip) or problems with the lifting mechanism.
Just a thought, the shift motor/gearbox isn't partly seized is it? If so, it could work with power to it but not spring back to centre after changing gear. Easily checked during re-assembly as you could leave the gearbox off and change manually. If everything then works, re-fit the shift gearbox and motor, then check again.
Just a thought, the shift motor/gearbox isn't partly seized is it? If so, it could work with power to it but not spring back to centre after changing gear. Easily checked during re-assembly as you could leave the gearbox off and change manually. If everything then works, re-fit the shift gearbox and motor, then check again.
#15
I ordered a new clutch pack and springs, the new springs were considerably longer that the one that were in it, so this may be the issue. My current issue now is that I cant get the front cover on, the centrifugal clutch shaft is hitting the bearing in the cover and wont go on. I have had it off and on several times now and never had this issue. Nothing has changed. Any ideas how to persuade this to go on?
#17
Thanks for all the tips guys. She runs almost perfectly now. Put in OEM Clutch Pack and OEM Springs. It creeps very slight when engaged but it is 100% better. As far as the cover goes, I tried to deburr the end of the shaft but it still wouldn't go. In my frustration I lined everything up and tightened the bolts up equally and it slid itself on. It didn't feel like it was binding and the engine turned over just fine, so I think it is good. Now just keeping my fingers crossed there are no oil drips. Thanks again!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
svahle
Classifieds, Garage Sale & Swap Shop
3
08-16-2017 01:33 PM
trapstar56
Polaris Ask an Expert! In fond memory of Old Polaris Tech.
3
11-03-2015 09:07 AM
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)