Drilling out a broken stud that small can be very difficult to do, especially if you don't have a shop press. If you do try to drill it out, then I would suggest using a left-handed drill bit.

 

Andrew is correct, however they are really not drill bits but look somewhat like them in that they have reverse threads. You first drill a hole into whatever remains of the bolt, then screw these "easy outs" (as I have heard them called) into the hole in the counterclockwise (loosen) direction. And as Andrew pointed out, the reverse threads causes them to tighten into the hole, given that it has been drilled deep enough into the bolt.

They come in various sizes for use in removing different size bolts. I recently purchased one a Home Depot for just a few bucks to remove and exhaust bolt that broke off on my leaf blower.

Let me add a good tip that I picked up somewhere when using these things. Screw a nut onto what remains of the bolt (unless it broke off inside the threaded hole) to help align the bit when drilling the hole for the "easy out". And be sure to drill the hole deep enough to give the easy out enough room to screw in deep to get sufficient bite.

They really do work great for what would otherwise be a painstaking job.

 

when i was taking the valve cover off my quadsport motor, the one bolt snapped so i drilled it out then put the easy out in. well it snapped inside there and nothing would drill though it. so what i had to do then was switch the whole head from my other quadsport motor.

-Mike

 

Yea, when an ez out breaks off, you're done. Ez outs are rock hard, but super brittle, especially the cheap ones.

 

stop a tool truck snap-on or mac get a set of left hand drill bits they work pretty good (THIS NOT A JOKE)i have a set just center punch start drilling and if the broken bolt is loose itwill not turn it down to the bottom of the hole instead it wil grab and spin it out........ sorry had to correct something,and when you drill turn drill speed way down and use plenty of oil

 

use the easy out ...but use a tourch to heat the area it will come right out if you get it red hot ......

 

If you try and drill out the stuck bolt, and damage the base metal threads - don't worry - don't scrap the part - you can use a heli-coil to make the part better than new.

The other day a bolt holding the case of our 300ex busted off. We tried the easy-out but just ended up splitting one side of the bolt and it stayed stuck. The galvanic corrosion between aluminum and steel can really stick some bolts in the holes, particularly on older machines. Before we were done we had damaged the threads big time.

I ended up using a Heli-coil repair. The Heli-coil looks like a short piece of spring make from SS. You first drill the hole a little oversize (the drill size is specific to each size heli-coil) and then us a special heli-coil tap to re-thread the oversize hole. Then you install the heli-coil. The inside diameter of the heli-coill is the size of the original hole. This is a common aircraft repair process and is stronger than the original (lager hole, more thread engagement.). The cost for a heli-coil repair kit for a specific hole size is typically $30 to $40 and comes with 8 to 10 heli-coils. Nappa usually carries them. Around here that is still cheaper than a machine shop, and you probably can do it without removing the engine.

Good luck.

 

I finally got it out!!, I heated it for about 10 min. with propane torch, then sprayed penetrating oil around it, then I used the vise grips to turn it out. Then all I did was went to a hardware store and bought a bolt that matched the thread and then threaded it in.

I bought some JB weld for the first time...man that stuff works awsome I used it everywhere something steel was broken. Would I be able to hold a new countershaft sprocket I have been waiting to put on, is JB weld strong enough to hold the sprocket on without ripping off...Yes I have to weld my drive sprocket on because the clips on the countershaft broke off so I now have to weld on the sprocket.

 

yeah man JB weld is great stuff. on my LT my counterbalancer broke off and it knocked a hole in the cases. me and my dad rigged up this peice of aluminum and coated it with jb weld then sanded it down. is was like brand new.

 

I threw a rod in a mini-bike that I owned as a kid. I remember my dad using JB Weld and some wire screen to cover the hole it punched in the side of the block. The patch lasted longer than the engine itself.