Riding in water
#2
What bike are you riding?
Some of the things that need special attention are as follows:
Airbox & Filter: Even in only a foot of water, contaminants can splash their way into the into the intake tube. Their are many ways to reduce this like a snorkel set up. Best to keep this area clean & dry.
Oil cooler: If you have one of these, keep it clean and unobstructed. They serve a big purpose and one clogged with mud is useless.
Cv joint Boots: You need to keep the mud out of your axle boots as much as possible. I don't mean after every mudhole, but when you get home, take the time to thoroughly fluh the folds out. this will ensure longer life of the rubber and the joint.
Chains: Keep em clean, adjusted, and lubed.
Brakes: Discs rinse out really easily, but drum brakes sometimes need to be taken off and rinsed on the inside. Very easy to do, just remove the tire and the drum will slip right off. Maybe put a dab of grease or spray a small amount of lube on the brake adjusting threads.
The entire bike: Clean it well and it will last longer. I've seen guys that neglect thier bikes and they end up looking ten years older than they are. Mud and grit can be ground into the seat cover and cause it to begin tearing. Mud will also dull the overall finish and fade out the decals. You can help by applying some wax after you wash it.
I'm sure I could list many more things but these are a good place to start.
Have a Blast & Bring on the MUD!!!!
Some of the things that need special attention are as follows:
Airbox & Filter: Even in only a foot of water, contaminants can splash their way into the into the intake tube. Their are many ways to reduce this like a snorkel set up. Best to keep this area clean & dry.
Oil cooler: If you have one of these, keep it clean and unobstructed. They serve a big purpose and one clogged with mud is useless.
Cv joint Boots: You need to keep the mud out of your axle boots as much as possible. I don't mean after every mudhole, but when you get home, take the time to thoroughly fluh the folds out. this will ensure longer life of the rubber and the joint.
Chains: Keep em clean, adjusted, and lubed.
Brakes: Discs rinse out really easily, but drum brakes sometimes need to be taken off and rinsed on the inside. Very easy to do, just remove the tire and the drum will slip right off. Maybe put a dab of grease or spray a small amount of lube on the brake adjusting threads.
The entire bike: Clean it well and it will last longer. I've seen guys that neglect thier bikes and they end up looking ten years older than they are. Mud and grit can be ground into the seat cover and cause it to begin tearing. Mud will also dull the overall finish and fade out the decals. You can help by applying some wax after you wash it.
I'm sure I could list many more things but these are a good place to start.
Have a Blast & Bring on the MUD!!!!
#5
I have stopped muddin with my 90' Toyota because of the repair bills..Even today 3 years after my muddin rampage I am still pulling rotors and things off to find mud! Took the box off to weld the receiver hitch and found a ton of mud hiding up there. ball joints, tie rods, U joints, stearin box all have worn out even though I washed and greased the heck out of them before/after muddin. So I am a little timid to grab a new rubicon and head out and do the same... now I stick to snow, much less abrasive
Just my 2 cents.. Joe
Just my 2 cents.. Joe
#7
Also a good idea to remove the rear hubs and apply a high-quality marine grease to the axle. Bostik makes a never-seize grease that is great for this, however a small tube of the stuff will cost you $20. I have used Bel-Ray brand of marine-grade grease with excellent results. You may find it difficult to remove the rear hub nuts (we're assuming here that this is a 2WD), but then it will be that much harder the longer you wait. An impact wrench works best and is strongly recommended to replace them. Many an axle has seen damaged splines by an owner who failed to tighten and later periodically check the rear hub nuts.
Also, I like to use Prestone Silicon Spay Lubricate on all rubber surfaces. It is the only silicon spray that I have found that is recommended for both metal and rubber. It is especially good to protect the boots that protect the U-joints. It dries fast on metal and leaves a protective residue on rubber.
Also, I like to use Prestone Silicon Spay Lubricate on all rubber surfaces. It is the only silicon spray that I have found that is recommended for both metal and rubber. It is especially good to protect the boots that protect the U-joints. It dries fast on metal and leaves a protective residue on rubber.
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#8
Also a good idea to remove the rear hubs and apply a high-quality marine grease to the axle. Bostik makes a never-seize grease that is great for this, however a small tube of the stuff will cost you $20. I have used Bel-Ray brand of marine-grade grease with excellent results. You may find it difficult to remove the rear hub nuts (we're assuming here that this is a 2WD), but then it will be that much harder the longer you wait. An impact wrench works best and is strongly recommended to replace them. Many an axle has seen damaged splines by an owner who failed to tighten and later periodically check the rear hub nuts.
Also, I like to use Prestone Silicon Spay Lubricate on all rubber surfaces. It is the only silicon spray that I have found that is recommended for both metal and rubber. It is especially good to protect the boots that protect the U-joints. It dries fast on metal and leaves a protective residue on rubber.
Also, I like to use Prestone Silicon Spay Lubricate on all rubber surfaces. It is the only silicon spray that I have found that is recommended for both metal and rubber. It is especially good to protect the boots that protect the U-joints. It dries fast on metal and leaves a protective residue on rubber.
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