Honda oil or synthetic
#1
#2
I believe your ultimate guide is your user/repair manual; using the API service codes and weights recommended should keep you safe.
I won't get into the synthetic/petroleum issue, because I haven't tried and tested 'em all.
Two comments:
1) Few synthetics themselves alone cause undue clutch slipping; clutches slip primarily because of disc surface glazing. Porous, high-friction clutch disc faces aren't apt to slip; if they do, change to another oil.
2) Aftermarket cam grinders and some motor builders believe petroleum lubricants generally protect cam lobes better than synthetics, partly because petroleum "self-heals" better (covering voids) and because petroleum is less likely to drain from an OHC, resulting in a "dry" start. (Don't shoot the messenger if you discount their beleif!)
Finally, "Yer pays yer money and yer takes yer cherce." Honda engines are pretty durable in my experience; follow the manual on recommended lubes and change intervals and sleep well.
Tree Farmer
I won't get into the synthetic/petroleum issue, because I haven't tried and tested 'em all.
Two comments:
1) Few synthetics themselves alone cause undue clutch slipping; clutches slip primarily because of disc surface glazing. Porous, high-friction clutch disc faces aren't apt to slip; if they do, change to another oil.
2) Aftermarket cam grinders and some motor builders believe petroleum lubricants generally protect cam lobes better than synthetics, partly because petroleum "self-heals" better (covering voids) and because petroleum is less likely to drain from an OHC, resulting in a "dry" start. (Don't shoot the messenger if you discount their beleif!)
Finally, "Yer pays yer money and yer takes yer cherce." Honda engines are pretty durable in my experience; follow the manual on recommended lubes and change intervals and sleep well.
Tree Farmer
#3
Tree Farmer you may be right about synthetic oil . I was flicking throught the TV channels one day and I came to a outdoors hunting,fishing show and there was a mechanic standing in a shop by a quad and he said "and thats why you do not use synthetic oil in ATVs" I only caught the end of his segment but wished I seen it all to know what he was talking about.
#4
In my experience, synthetics will not cause you any problems. There are a lot of myths and religion in the argument.
I have personally run my ATC350X on synthetic for years. It finally came time for a rebuild, mainly to do with a deteriorated air filter that I was unaware of, long story. Anyway, the engine was burning some oil. I stripped it down, the lack of general wear was amazing for a 13 year old engine that went thru the use and abuse it did. The cam and rockers in particular showed use, but a distinct lack of gross wear, valve guides were great, valves only needed lapping, and the cylinder only required honing and replacement of the rings.
I run synthetic in my vehicles that don't leak (aka my non Chevrolets) as well. But I think it is especially important in my air cooled, hot running, high RPM turning, highly abused ATV engines. I am getting ready to switch my 400EX to Mobile1 synthetic on it's next oil change.
There is an article on the web somewhere detailing some experiments with the "motorcycle" oils that makes a person think they are better off with a conventional automotive oil. If I find the link, I will post it.
I have personally run my ATC350X on synthetic for years. It finally came time for a rebuild, mainly to do with a deteriorated air filter that I was unaware of, long story. Anyway, the engine was burning some oil. I stripped it down, the lack of general wear was amazing for a 13 year old engine that went thru the use and abuse it did. The cam and rockers in particular showed use, but a distinct lack of gross wear, valve guides were great, valves only needed lapping, and the cylinder only required honing and replacement of the rings.
I run synthetic in my vehicles that don't leak (aka my non Chevrolets) as well. But I think it is especially important in my air cooled, hot running, high RPM turning, highly abused ATV engines. I am getting ready to switch my 400EX to Mobile1 synthetic on it's next oil change.
There is an article on the web somewhere detailing some experiments with the "motorcycle" oils that makes a person think they are better off with a conventional automotive oil. If I find the link, I will post it.
#7
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#8
Just an FYI....when we took our Honda Foreman in for the first service, Honda adjusted the valves, changed the oil, etc. I asked them what kind of oil they put in it. Want to guess what they use? Castrol 20w50. I was surprised to say the least. I even looked on my receipt and it says right on there: Castrol 20w50 $2.89 a quart. Can you say over-charged.
#10
I did quite a bit of research on this topic as well. Honda petroleum oil costs me anywhere from $3.05 to $3.95 a quart. Honda synthetic blend is over $4.00 a quart. All the research I saw proved to me that the synthetics are fine. That business about having to use "motorcycle" oil because of the transmission is just a marketing scheme to get you to pay outrageous prices for regular old motor oil. I have switched over to Mobil1 and have been very pleased. I check my oil regularly and I have noticed that it is lasting much longer. The Honda oil turned black and nasty really fast, the Mobil1 lasts much longer.
The Zinc in the oil is what "rejuvinates" the cylinder and other parts that get scratched or slightly damaged. Synthetics also contain zinc, so it will do the same thing petroleum oils.
BTW, I pay $3.99 a quart for Mobil1 fully synthetic 15W-50.
The Zinc in the oil is what "rejuvinates" the cylinder and other parts that get scratched or slightly damaged. Synthetics also contain zinc, so it will do the same thing petroleum oils.
BTW, I pay $3.99 a quart for Mobil1 fully synthetic 15W-50.