250r a-arms
#1
So I bent a a-arm this weekend. And I need to get myself a new set. So I was wondering what you guys thought of the brands out there? Any suggestions? Also if I put on wider a-arms something like +1 and +1 forward will I need to revalve my shocks? Is +1+1 good? I don't think I want to go too much wider so if I ride trails at all? I have works triple rates right now. What will happen if I don't revalve them? Will they fit ok if I don't revalve? I am sure the wait to get them revalved is some time and I can't really afford to be down at this time. Have races..
thanks
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#2
You will have to revalve if you go to a wider a-arm. If you buy new a-arms, definitely go with a +2+1 setup. You will also want to buy a wider axle like the Lonestar. As far as who makes good a-arms, there are so many out there, most are pretty good quality. One guy on ebay, brad hermann motor sports sells very good quality a-arms for a little over $400. I bought a pair from him, not had any problems with them.
#3
#5
#6
You're brake lines will work if you only go to +1 a-arms but if you go to +2's (which is what I would do if you are going to buy aftermarket a-arms) you will need new brake lines and then get the stainless braided lines, run you around $100 but well worth it. Stopping power is difference between night and day with them.
Long travel shocks are only used if you are running a long travel a-arm setup like Houser's long travel a-arms or Laeger's Protrax front end or the Lobo II. Many people think you get additional travel with the long travel shocks but the 19" shock has the same travel as the standard 16" shock. In fact the "guts" of each shock are the same between the 16's and 19's. It's always a good idea if you are going to buy a-arms to also buy your shocks at the same time. I've seen too many times people buy better aftermarket shocks and then a few months later buy some +2 a-arms and then their shocks won't work properly with the new a-arms. If you buy +2 a-arms and you want to buy new shocks, make sure you tell them you have +2 a-arms.
Long travel shocks are only used if you are running a long travel a-arm setup like Houser's long travel a-arms or Laeger's Protrax front end or the Lobo II. Many people think you get additional travel with the long travel shocks but the 19" shock has the same travel as the standard 16" shock. In fact the "guts" of each shock are the same between the 16's and 19's. It's always a good idea if you are going to buy a-arms to also buy your shocks at the same time. I've seen too many times people buy better aftermarket shocks and then a few months later buy some +2 a-arms and then their shocks won't work properly with the new a-arms. If you buy +2 a-arms and you want to buy new shocks, make sure you tell them you have +2 a-arms.
#7
Has anyone used the JD Perforamce a-arms? Seem pretty good and resonably priced. Anybody have thoughts on them? MXatvracing.com has them for 445. Which seems good. Anyone ordered from them before? Also seems like a fairly easy job to replace the a-arms. I am going to be close on time seeing a race is coming up? How long of a job is it to replace them? Anyone ever run into any problems doing it? Tie rod ends com off easy? I also see that all these a-arms come with out tie rod ends? DO the stock one usally last pretty good? Is there any concern they might be in rough shape as well?
thanks
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#9
The JD Performance a-arms are a good product for the money. A-arms are very easy to remove, just get a big hammer so you can get the spindles off. Some people will say buy a ball joint removal tool but that's not necessary. You will be able to use your stock tie rod ends. Total time shouldn't be more than a couple hours. You'll probably spend more time getting your front end alignment where you want it!!
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