Good site!
OK. According to the chart, I am at .92, I changed the main jet from #148 to a #140 (2 sizes) and nothing. Should I do the other jet? Also, it says that if my air screw is where the air filter is, then I turn it IN to lean it out (I've been turning it out)? So I should turn it in to lean it out, cause I have it turn to 1 3/8 (stock)I'll try that. [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

UPDATE: Went back after I wrote this and the main jet should be #136 by my math. A #140 was the smallest I could find out of 15 stores (including dealers). Thats close I guess.

Also, I only ran once 42-1 and once 32-1. The previous owner ran 42-1 @ sea level. What should I do??

Ron

 

OK. Today, went back to the Castor #927 and ran a 32-1 ration. The 42-1 ratio of golden spec was almost gone out of tank, had to turn resv. on. So, ran the ATC for about 30 min +/- and pulled the plug, DARK BROWN, I am so close! Might just leave it, hummmmmmmm. I compaired it to old plug, and sure enough. So forsure I will stay with 32-1 ratio, w/ Castor.

Ron

 

I think if you would have started out with PJ1 Goldfire Pro you would not have had any oil related problems! But that discussion was days ago.

 

[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-sad.gif[/img]
I heard this is also good oil too. (I went with Castor #927)

Ron

 

Just remember the 927 is not a full synthetic oil. I used to run 927 but the full synthetic is going to give you better protection.

 

It doesn't say "synthetic blend" NOR "synthetic" just synthetic esters. Now on the other hand, golden spec. says "synthetic blend" which mean 50% synth. 50% not. How do you know for sure?

Ron

 

Here is what I found. Can you guys show me anything to read to compare??
Castor 927 is a unique blend of highly refined castor oil, a specially prepared synthetic and an additive system that reduces carbon and gum formation and provides excellent rust & corrosion protection. Castor 927 also contains an exclusive additive that keeps power valves cleaner and working properly. For all of us that wish to keep our air and water cleaner, Castor 927 is biodegradable. Castor 927 keeps on lubricating; where other lubricants turn to carbon or vaporize, and provides extra protection on cylinder walls, bearing journals and other critical areas at temperatures much higher than other lubricants.
Color D 1500 Yellow
Gravity °A.P.I. 17.6
Viscosity SUS @ 100°F 617
Viscosity SUS @ 210°F 73
Viscosity cSt @ 40°C 133.1
Viscosity cSt @ 100°C 13.79
Pour Point, °F -5
Flash Point, °F 420
Fire Point, °F 480
Viscosity Index 99
SAE Viscosity 40

 

Found some info on Golden Spectro.
TYPICAL INSPECTIONS cSt @ 40 oC 102.0
cSt @ 100 oC 12.8
Pour Point, oF +2.0 oF
Flash Point, oF 170.0 oF
SAE Grade 40.0

*SAE grade is 40.0 just like the Castor, some had said that was to high, well they use that too [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-smile.gif[/img]

 

I have seen what castor does to power valves. It is not a pretty sight. Though, with any oil, you will have carbon build-up on the power valve, but in my personal experience and the experience of the race team & shop owner I hang out with, PJ1 Goldfire Pro is the best when it comes to keeping your engine clean, and it does a fine job of lubricating as well.
927 smells good, but the only way you will smell it is if you are getting spanked.

 

Where do you get PJ1 at??
I also went back to a 32-1 mix. I did notice a little loss in power.

Ron