14 tooth sprocket on 400ex
#2
The difference is dramatic, and not necessarily good!! I ran a 14 for a while. It was great for play riding, but out on the trail it wasn't at all practical. The bike would wheelie at the slightest wick of the throtle (and I was running 22" rear tires back then). If I would power out of a corner, the front would lift and I would lose steering control. I would suggest going one tooth (two if you want to be extreme) bigger in the rear as the best compromise for some lower gearing.
#3
I personally like the extra low end grunt that I get with the 14 tooth. It may be a little low for trail riding, but out in the dunes, it's the only way to go. No more revving the **** out of your bike in 2nd gear to make the big hill climbs. 3rd and 4th gear become usable, and you can fully rev out 5th gear, where with the 15 tooth, it would lug down sometimes in 5th.
Oh, and they're only like $15 (or less) from rocky mountain atv. You could buy a 14 and a 15, and it only takes 10 minutes to swap one out for the other if you want higher or lower gearing.
Oh, and they're only like $15 (or less) from rocky mountain atv. You could buy a 14 and a 15, and it only takes 10 minutes to swap one out for the other if you want higher or lower gearing.
#4
la400ex, do you plan on changing your rear wheels to larger or smaller tires? That will affect your decision.
As YZGUY pointed out, the 14T front sprocket will give you a lot more torque.
Currently, if your gearing is too high for the conditions you ride (For example, on a trail if 2nd gear is revving too high and 3rd too low) then a 14T (or a 1 or 2 tooth larger rear) would be advantageous to install. My friend rides in the tight woods with us and at the dunes, the 14T has allowed his machine to keep in power a lot better.
FYI: to figure out the % gear change, it's
(# front teeth old/# front teeth new)*100 - 100
<0% = more top speed (if the engine can handle it)
>0% = more usuable low end torque.
As YZGUY pointed out, the 14T front sprocket will give you a lot more torque.
Currently, if your gearing is too high for the conditions you ride (For example, on a trail if 2nd gear is revving too high and 3rd too low) then a 14T (or a 1 or 2 tooth larger rear) would be advantageous to install. My friend rides in the tight woods with us and at the dunes, the 14T has allowed his machine to keep in power a lot better.
FYI: to figure out the % gear change, it's
(# front teeth old/# front teeth new)*100 - 100
<0% = more top speed (if the engine can handle it)
>0% = more usuable low end torque.
#5
#7
I just bought a 15 tooth but i will probably get a 14 tooth too. I couldnt get the holes on the little plate to line up with the holes on the sprocket. What could i be doing wrong? Fuller, I talked to ken husser about porting, putting a high comp piston, and a cam in my bike. He wants around $850 for that. 200 for the porting, 200 for labor, 130 for the piston, and 160 for the cam plus all kinds of other stuff he mentioned. Man i gotta learn how to work on an engine. I could save myself a lot of money and put the piston and the cam and just let him do the porting. Thanks, Anthony
Trending Topics
#8
That "little plate" acts as a locking device to keep your front sprocket in line with your rear sprocket (minimizes side to side movement). There is a groove on your countershaft. Put that little plate over the groove, and you'll be able to line it up. It will rotate freely in the groove.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)