Is the bigger chainsaw better?
#1
Is the bigger chainsaw better?
Hi all,
I started cutting my own firewood last season and bought a Stihl MS 250 (45cc) for the job. I only need about four cords per year, but at times it felt like I could use a saw that is more powerful. It takes a long time to cut the wood to stove length especially if it is maple, oak ect. the really hard stuff. I know that the MS 250 is on the small side, but I wanted to start out safe (didn't have previous cutting experience) Now I'm thinking about getting a chainsaw that is in the 55cc range to increase power yet keep the weight (and price) low. I must say i'm uncertain if it is a good idea or I guess it is one of my questions. I just wonder if that much change in the engine size will increase the power and cutting speed by a significant amount? If you could tell me about a similar experience. Thanks a lot [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img]
I started cutting my own firewood last season and bought a Stihl MS 250 (45cc) for the job. I only need about four cords per year, but at times it felt like I could use a saw that is more powerful. It takes a long time to cut the wood to stove length especially if it is maple, oak ect. the really hard stuff. I know that the MS 250 is on the small side, but I wanted to start out safe (didn't have previous cutting experience) Now I'm thinking about getting a chainsaw that is in the 55cc range to increase power yet keep the weight (and price) low. I must say i'm uncertain if it is a good idea or I guess it is one of my questions. I just wonder if that much change in the engine size will increase the power and cutting speed by a significant amount? If you could tell me about a similar experience. Thanks a lot [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img]
#2
Is the bigger chainsaw better?
Bigger is always better, however we have a stihl 360 pro with a 20" bar and 3/8" chisel chain, and when the chain is sharp you can cut through any wood like butter. We sharpen our own chains, so we grind part of the chain away to get a deeper cut, and keep the actual teeth sharp for maximun cutting power. We sell firewood in the winter and we usually make about 30-35 cord with our stihl, and we have no problems with it. For us the biggest diameter wood we handle is about 3'. If we came across anything bigger we would need a bigger saw that would handle a bigger bar.
#3
Is the bigger chainsaw better?
I've got a Husqvarna, 20" bar, after wearing out a Mac 20". More then adaquate to cut 6 to 10 cords of wood a year if, as oneshot mentions, you keep it nice and sharp. Having said that, I have stuff that is too big for my saw. To date, have a neighbor with a BIG saw who has taken care of these for me. Can't justify a bigger one for as often as I would use it and at my age don't think I want to drag a big one around all day.
#4
Is the bigger chainsaw better?
seems like you're pretty please with the stihl. id say take a look at the newer ms270 or 280. nice saws. fairly light (as compared to the 290 - 310), plenty of power, and very low vibe. can run a 16 - 20 inch on them, although both would run best with 16 or 18.
and unless you need 2 saws, the stihl dealer will more than likely take it in on trade, will save you some $$.
and unless you need 2 saws, the stihl dealer will more than likely take it in on trade, will save you some $$.
#5
Is the bigger chainsaw better?
I use two saws for all my cutting, one is a Jonsered 2041 (41 cc) that I bought about 14 years ago. At the time I was doing a little bit of cutting now and then, and I figured even a plastic saw would stand up to it. Well, 14 years later the old Jonsered is still going strong and I do a lot more cutting now than I used to, mostly clearing deadfalls and limbing.
The key to long saw life in my opinion is the right gas-oil mix. Jonsered says you can use 50:1 if you use their oil. Now, I'll tell you right up front that I'm cheap, and their oil is pretty expensive. So, I use hardware store 2 stroke oil, at a 25:1 mix, which Jonsered says to use if you're not using their oil for some inexplicable reason. I have some friends who aren't so stingy with their money, they went for the high end oil and the 50:1 mix. They also went through a lot more saws than I do, usually from piston and cylinder damage. Now, most of the new saws will set you back around 600 bucks Cdn here, and a new piston and cylinder is around 400 bucks, so the dealers sell a lot more new saws than piston and cylinder sets. Go figure.
The other saw I use is a Husqvarna 262 XP, (62 cc) that belongs to a good friend we do a lot of work for. The best way I can describe it is a race car with a chain instead of wheels. It uses easily twice the gas the Jonsered does, and the big difference between the two saws is in the way they cut bigger wood. If anything, the Jonsered is faster cutting through small to medium size softwood, which is 75% of my cutting time. It has a higher chain speed which helps a bit considering the smaller chain size (.325 vs. 3/8) It's also lighter and easier to handle for extended periods. The big difference is when you get into hardwood or bigger softwood. The Jonsered slows down, while the Husky simply doesn't.
Now, I'm going to make an observation about Stihl saws, and I'm probably going to twist some tails doing it. A friend of mine got a new MS 260 (49 cc) last year, and I was considering getting a new saw myself, so I asked him if I could try the Stihl. I brought my Jonsered so I could compare apples to apples. Both saws were sharpened to within an inch of their lives, and I tackled an ugly old spruce with the Stihl. I cut for about 5 minutes, then shut it down, and asked him if he wanted to try mine, since he hadn't used it before. He finished the tree, then shut the Jonsered off and just shook his head. I can't recall the exact expression he used, but I do remember him taking the Lord's name in vain and adding "that thing will cut !!"
I didn't mind using the Stihl, but I guess I expected more performance from a "professional grade" saw, which the 260 is billed as. It was heavier than mine, not as smooth, and the balance wasn't as good for limbing. I'm not sure mine cuts any faster, it's just easier to handle when you're working, with less wasted effort.
If I was going to buy a new saw today, I'd look pretty hard at the Jonsered 2152 (53 cc), or the Husqvarna Rancher (55 cc). I'd also insist on a "test drive" first, since once you've paid for it, you've got it whether you like it or not.
Ideally, two saws are the way to go, something light and quick for felling and limbing, and something with loads of power for blocking at the woodpile once it's been hauled out.
The key to long saw life in my opinion is the right gas-oil mix. Jonsered says you can use 50:1 if you use their oil. Now, I'll tell you right up front that I'm cheap, and their oil is pretty expensive. So, I use hardware store 2 stroke oil, at a 25:1 mix, which Jonsered says to use if you're not using their oil for some inexplicable reason. I have some friends who aren't so stingy with their money, they went for the high end oil and the 50:1 mix. They also went through a lot more saws than I do, usually from piston and cylinder damage. Now, most of the new saws will set you back around 600 bucks Cdn here, and a new piston and cylinder is around 400 bucks, so the dealers sell a lot more new saws than piston and cylinder sets. Go figure.
The other saw I use is a Husqvarna 262 XP, (62 cc) that belongs to a good friend we do a lot of work for. The best way I can describe it is a race car with a chain instead of wheels. It uses easily twice the gas the Jonsered does, and the big difference between the two saws is in the way they cut bigger wood. If anything, the Jonsered is faster cutting through small to medium size softwood, which is 75% of my cutting time. It has a higher chain speed which helps a bit considering the smaller chain size (.325 vs. 3/8) It's also lighter and easier to handle for extended periods. The big difference is when you get into hardwood or bigger softwood. The Jonsered slows down, while the Husky simply doesn't.
Now, I'm going to make an observation about Stihl saws, and I'm probably going to twist some tails doing it. A friend of mine got a new MS 260 (49 cc) last year, and I was considering getting a new saw myself, so I asked him if I could try the Stihl. I brought my Jonsered so I could compare apples to apples. Both saws were sharpened to within an inch of their lives, and I tackled an ugly old spruce with the Stihl. I cut for about 5 minutes, then shut it down, and asked him if he wanted to try mine, since he hadn't used it before. He finished the tree, then shut the Jonsered off and just shook his head. I can't recall the exact expression he used, but I do remember him taking the Lord's name in vain and adding "that thing will cut !!"
I didn't mind using the Stihl, but I guess I expected more performance from a "professional grade" saw, which the 260 is billed as. It was heavier than mine, not as smooth, and the balance wasn't as good for limbing. I'm not sure mine cuts any faster, it's just easier to handle when you're working, with less wasted effort.
If I was going to buy a new saw today, I'd look pretty hard at the Jonsered 2152 (53 cc), or the Husqvarna Rancher (55 cc). I'd also insist on a "test drive" first, since once you've paid for it, you've got it whether you like it or not.
Ideally, two saws are the way to go, something light and quick for felling and limbing, and something with loads of power for blocking at the woodpile once it's been hauled out.
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#9
Is the bigger chainsaw better?
Yes, the extra power makes a difference. I went from a Mac 20" to a Husky 272XP, a very powerful saw. Getting into oak or cherry, the Mac would bog down quickly, while the Husky just rips right through. Definitely quicker. I might spend a minute getting through a 1' diameter oak log with the old Mac, while the Husky with a sharp chain does it in maybe 10 seconds.
#10