DirtyWhiteBoy

I live on 89th place about 1/2 mile west from the "Only" drive in left. My quad is in the shop now for a tore cv boot which crammed mud in the joint and started to jam up about 40-50mph and steer in the wrong direction[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-shocked.gif[/img] and a cooling fan blade. Seems something stopped the fan and the strong @ss motor just melted a line down the plastic impeller and made everything oblonged and obviously no air flow while not moving. Fan motor was still rolling till I took out the fuse [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img] Waranty should cover all the dealer said....except possibly the boot....which may lead to the joint...which may lead me to pay some dough...even though I have MASSIVE skidplates everywhere, stuff still gets in...amazing[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]

Memorial Day weekend was the first time I had my quad out in the public, so I don't know where to ride minus Bong State Rec. What about you? I/M me.

 

What do you guys think about these pumps to make a portable rad washer?

pump #1
pump#2

 

I am going with the pump 2 from Princess auto. Picking it up today let me know what you decide and how you make out,

 

Well, my pump DID NOT work so well. It had plenty of volume, but NO pressure!. Mine is an Attwood 12VDC 500gph bilge pump. It was only $17.00 to my door, so I am not out much. Been looking a FloJet chemical sprayer pumps 50 psi/2.5 gpm! The cost is $75.00, though.
It would appear that, unless you get in to a higher priced pump, you won't be happy with the performance of these little impeller-type pumps. I sure wasn't! Just my 2cents...........

 

I tried the 500 also with the same results (not enough pressure). So I went to the 750 and it works OK. Has enough pressure to clean the radiator to stop over heating. Work better if you remove one of the inner fenders so you can get close to the rad. to do better job. I pack the pump, 12' of bilge pump hose and 20' of wire in an old lunch box. I also drilled about half of the lunch box full of 1/8" holes and notched the seam with a hole large enough for the hose and wire to go through, that way the lunch box acts as a strainer to keep stuff from getting into the pump.

 

I am a Millwright by trade, as being so; I have a good grasp on how pumps work.
These bilge pumps that you are trying to use are designed for high volume, low pressure.
The impeller design and the volute (the casing which looks like a sea shell) do not permit a high discharge head. (pressure) Therefore if you reduce the outlet hose to get a higher velocity, by "thumbing" all you do is create "slippage". The water just goes round and round the volute.

Some centrifugal pumps can create good pressure. These pumps have smaller clearances between the eye of the impellor and the volute. These pumps can have a .005" to .020", instead of .150" to .250" clearance like my Attwood 12VDC 500gph bilge pump that I have for my boat.

The highest discharge head (pressure) producing pumps are either piston pumps or diaphragm pumps, but are not cost effective.

 

I discovered(the hard way) the downside to that volute design, THAT is why I am looking at the FloJet diaphragm type pump. Cost is around $75.00, to get the 50 PSI stream I want. These pumps are used in chemical sprayers that mount on ATV, or small tractors.

 

here is another pump, best psi I've seen yet, but pricey.
pump

pump2

 

Look on TSC website(Tractor Supply) You can get a similar pump- 50PSI/2.4 GPM for about $75.00 U.S.

 

Trx450 check out the 12V Pressure Washer Kit, looks like the perfect solution except for the price that is.
12v pressure washer