Ultimate Ignition Revisited
#21
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alltoys how much power increase does just cdi box make i have tried ever thing with jetting k&N still not impressed. i really cant tell any power increase with the mods i have done. im not as sharp on this cdi deal. maybe i will just wait on msd to make one i hope they do.
#23
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Propolaris,
I am not sure of your modds and what kind of machine you have it on. Intake, exhaust, jetting can deliver as much as %15 gains alone. A good ignition can deliver another %15 depending on how restrictive the previous ignition was. There are a number of factors that determine your outcome all modds are not created equal. The only way I have been able to see my results is to do one thing at a time and measure the results mostly I need more information from you.
I am not sure of your modds and what kind of machine you have it on. Intake, exhaust, jetting can deliver as much as %15 gains alone. A good ignition can deliver another %15 depending on how restrictive the previous ignition was. There are a number of factors that determine your outcome all modds are not created equal. The only way I have been able to see my results is to do one thing at a time and measure the results mostly I need more information from you.
#24
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alltoys i have a vforce with hmf duals , k&n, 148main and 150main have you made a ignition for the V. I think if i get the ignition it will wake my V up. thats all the mods i have done right now. i dont think its gonna haul butt till i get some kinda of cdi box im i right.
#25
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Propolaris,
I do not have an ignition just adapted ignitions from other companys. Two of the better ones I have tested are Direct Ignition ( HPX 4 cylinder unit) or a Boyer Bransden MK III unit times 2 ( single cylinder ignition times 2). 4 stroke tech will be coming out with a new plug and play cdi for the V in January it will be a tuneable system I was told. The ones I have talked about need custom fabbing to mount the pick ups on the crank definately not a plug and play system. I am not the builder of these ignitions just a person with a quest to find other alternatives to our performance robbing cdi.
I do not have an ignition just adapted ignitions from other companys. Two of the better ones I have tested are Direct Ignition ( HPX 4 cylinder unit) or a Boyer Bransden MK III unit times 2 ( single cylinder ignition times 2). 4 stroke tech will be coming out with a new plug and play cdi for the V in January it will be a tuneable system I was told. The ones I have talked about need custom fabbing to mount the pick ups on the crank definately not a plug and play system. I am not the builder of these ignitions just a person with a quest to find other alternatives to our performance robbing cdi.
#27
#28
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Kawy,
I have a Dial A Jet. It is an adjustable jet... works great because I am always change things on my bike depending to the type of ridding I am doing.
Here is a link Dial A Jet
RJ
I have a Dial A Jet. It is an adjustable jet... works great because I am always change things on my bike depending to the type of ridding I am doing.
Here is a link Dial A Jet
RJ
#29
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aqlltoys if you please, i talked threw email to kirk at electromotive and he said i need the 4 cyl which you alredy told me and that there (racers) using a 2.5 wheel with a 10mm centering hole. my question is where the pull start would have gone theres a bushing with no keyway so will i have to open up that side and try and install the wheel near the generator stator? not sure what you did with this. thanks
#30
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Scl48,
A cup has to machined to fit over the crank shaft with a notch made for a key way to keep the the cup steady plus be narrow enough to fit in the rubber seal. On the cup there is also a washer with a shoulder to hold the 60 tooth wheel. It must be machined to be in one piece. 2 tapped holes that will receive 2 screws with washers go close enough to the 60 tooth wheel to hold it tight. This way you can turn the wheel to adjust for timing change. A large enough hole must be in the centre to accommodate the bolt that normally holds the pull start mechanism on, ( it will now hold the wheel and adapter on the crank shaft). The chisel point pickup can be mounted with their universal mounting bracket on the case wall. The rest you can find out by reading the manual that is downloaded from their site.
All you have to do is remove the pull start mechanism and install the machined cup and washer that is the only thing I can think to call it.
A cup has to machined to fit over the crank shaft with a notch made for a key way to keep the the cup steady plus be narrow enough to fit in the rubber seal. On the cup there is also a washer with a shoulder to hold the 60 tooth wheel. It must be machined to be in one piece. 2 tapped holes that will receive 2 screws with washers go close enough to the 60 tooth wheel to hold it tight. This way you can turn the wheel to adjust for timing change. A large enough hole must be in the centre to accommodate the bolt that normally holds the pull start mechanism on, ( it will now hold the wheel and adapter on the crank shaft). The chisel point pickup can be mounted with their universal mounting bracket on the case wall. The rest you can find out by reading the manual that is downloaded from their site.
All you have to do is remove the pull start mechanism and install the machined cup and washer that is the only thing I can think to call it.