Ultimate Ignition Revisited
#31
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alltoys this is a v force and under the cover where i assume the pull start goes there is a washer quarter in. thick with 3 8mm holes drilled in and its got a cup to fit over the crank all one part but there is no key way that far out on the crank. with the bolt out of the washer it doesn't turn on the crank when the motor turns over i checked that so with the bolt in would that work to hold the wheel from turning? iam going to take some pictures so you can see what i am talking about. i think we have to figure out how to hold that cup and wheel on the crank unless that bolt will hold it. thanks
#32
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Scl48,
If you look real close to the crank shaft at the end there is notch cut into the side for a key to fit at least there was one on the 2 V's that I adapted. Also since you are hooking this up to a V you will have to make a spacer to go between the flywheel housing and the end cap so the chisel pick up will fit. Would it not be better to wait for Vortex to come out with a plug and play ignition in the new year just a thought.
If you look real close to the crank shaft at the end there is notch cut into the side for a key to fit at least there was one on the 2 V's that I adapted. Also since you are hooking this up to a V you will have to make a spacer to go between the flywheel housing and the end cap so the chisel pick up will fit. Would it not be better to wait for Vortex to come out with a plug and play ignition in the new year just a thought.
#33
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alltoys you is right about the keyway(my man), but one problem as these photos will show there is a rubber O ring where i think somehow a keyway will have to be and the O ring in on the inside of the bushing toward the crank.ignition photos
#35
#36
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Schl48,
The crank bushing you show must be replaced with new one that you must machine to accomodate the 60 tooth wheel. It must be the same size where it mounts to the shaft then have a big enough flange to hold the toothed wheel. The bolt can be used to mount the bushing on the shaft just like with the old one with a key to keep everything in alignment.
The crank bushing you show must be replaced with new one that you must machine to accomodate the 60 tooth wheel. It must be the same size where it mounts to the shaft then have a big enough flange to hold the toothed wheel. The bolt can be used to mount the bushing on the shaft just like with the old one with a key to keep everything in alignment.
#37
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could i just buy another one of the bushings and if its possible put a keyway in the outer edge before the o ring. tap out the 3 holes to 8mm and put a spacer in between the wheel and bushing. do you know if a keyway could be cut in the outer edge. is there a tool or take it to a machine shop? then cut a hole one and 3/16ths in the center of reluctor wheel to slip over bolt in end of crank and the there 8mm bolts would hold it on. thanks, john
#38