Drive Pulley Puller Bolt?
#11
I have a 2005 Kawasaki Mule 610 4X4. I needed to replace the wear shoes (49048-0001) in the Driven Pulley. Doing the job requires the Kawasaki Special Tool 57001-1429. It's just a bolt with a taper at the end. But without it you are in a bind, you will not get that pully off without it....or so you would think. What you need to do is go to your local hardware (I went to Value) and purchase a 14mm X 110mm Fine thread bolt and a 10mm x 100mm fine thread bolt. Take the 10mm bolt and remove the head with an angle grinder, that will leave you with a 10mm x @95mm shaft with the threads on one end. Remove the main retaining bolt from the driven pulley. Insert the 10mm rod (bolt with head removed) thread first into the hole where the main bolt was removed from. Thread in the 14mm X 110mm bolt into the center of the driven pulley and tighten clockwise. A few little twists and "pop!", the driven pulley is free. Remove the driven pulley and then remove the 10mm rod which will be freely accessible. Store these two pieces for the next time you need to pop that pulley. Total cost of the 2 bolts @$5.
#12
I have a 2005 Kawasaki Mule 610 4X4. I needed to replace the wear shoes (49048-0001) in the Driven Pulley. Doing the job requires the Kawasaki Special Tool 57001-1429. It's just a bolt with a taper at the end. But without it you are in a bind, you will not get that pully off without it....or so you would think. What you need to do is go to your local hardware (I went to Value) and purchase a 14mm X 110mm Fine thread bolt and a 10mm x 100mm fine thread bolt. Take the 10mm bolt and remove the head with an angle grinder, that will leave you with a 10mm x @95mm shaft with the threads on one end. Remove the main retaining bolt from the driven pulley. Insert the 10mm rod (bolt with head removed) thread first into the hole where the main bolt was removed from. Thread in the 14mm X 110mm bolt into the center of the driven pulley and tighten clockwise. A few little twists and "pop!", the driven pulley is free. Remove the driven pulley and then remove the 10mm rod which will be freely accessible. Store these two pieces for the next time you need to pop that pulley. Total cost of the 2 bolts @$5.
#13
I'm not sure if the drive pulley is the same on yours, but my 2000 Kaw Prairie 400 4x4
primary/drive pulley (not the driven pulley) uses a clutch puller bolt like this:
Erlandsonperformance.com
PCP-10 clutch puller
and according to my notes with the puller, it has 1.5 thread pitch and is a 14mm bolt.
Now, you can use a std bolt instead of the puller.
Wrap the threads real well with teflon tape.
Tip the machine so the clutch hole will hold water.
Fill the hole with water but not to the point where you can't get the bolt started at least 5 turns or more, a pretty good bite.
The length of the bolt (use a high grade bolt, like 10.9) is 100mm from the bottom of the hex head to the end.
It may take a few tries but hydraulic pressure will pop the clutch off.
Use an air impact wrench on the bolt if you need to thread it in faster than what water may be seeping out.
This is how many people remove their snowmobile clutches.
primary/drive pulley (not the driven pulley) uses a clutch puller bolt like this:
Erlandsonperformance.com
PCP-10 clutch puller
and according to my notes with the puller, it has 1.5 thread pitch and is a 14mm bolt.
Now, you can use a std bolt instead of the puller.
Wrap the threads real well with teflon tape.
Tip the machine so the clutch hole will hold water.
Fill the hole with water but not to the point where you can't get the bolt started at least 5 turns or more, a pretty good bite.
The length of the bolt (use a high grade bolt, like 10.9) is 100mm from the bottom of the hex head to the end.
It may take a few tries but hydraulic pressure will pop the clutch off.
Use an air impact wrench on the bolt if you need to thread it in faster than what water may be seeping out.
This is how many people remove their snowmobile clutches.
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