650 dyno runs
#42
Originally posted by: reds650
you lose very little bottom end as soon as you hit the gas it's over 4000 anyway
the cam timing hurts power more then the ignition timing does!!
you lose very little bottom end as soon as you hit the gas it's over 4000 anyway
the cam timing hurts power more then the ignition timing does!!
But how are folks changing the cam timing without indexed cam gears? Offset bushings?
#43
I can't say for sure, but the easiest way is by changing the position of the intermediate shaft sprocket. reds650 may be able to elaborate, and I believe you must have a degree wheel to accomplish this. Apparently this tip came from the Canadian Kawasaki phone-in tech line, of all places!!
#45
yes you can move the cams around with the lower chain. Yes you need a degree wheel, a piston stop, a dial indicator and a clutch puller. If you are not comfortable going well into the engine you might want to have it done by someone who is. If you make a boo boo and go to far one way or the other you can bend valves.
Ray
Ray
#47
reds650,
I was wondering if you could give me some more information on both the cams and the porting.
Any idea on the cost of porting and timing by a local machine shop, and can they even do this. My brother is a car mechanic, but I'm not sure he has the tools to reset the cams, or is it even that difficult to do? Any thoughts from anyone would be greatly appreciated. I have a buddy that has a 440ex that needs to be taught a lesson, soon, besides I hate losing. Thanks in advance.
I was wondering if you could give me some more information on both the cams and the porting.
Any idea on the cost of porting and timing by a local machine shop, and can they even do this. My brother is a car mechanic, but I'm not sure he has the tools to reset the cams, or is it even that difficult to do? Any thoughts from anyone would be greatly appreciated. I have a buddy that has a 440ex that needs to be taught a lesson, soon, besides I hate losing. Thanks in advance.
#48
Hey crankdog. I charge $250-$300 canadian per head for the porting. Don't know where your at so I can't suggest someone close to you. Anyone that really know's how to do it will charge about the same. Don't give your heads to your buddy that wants to try!! It takes hundreds of hours of porting and flow bench testing to become proficient at porting. Most people that try will do more harm then good. The kawa V heads MUST maintain high velocity as well as flow to make good HP numbers.
I have found some things that really work with these V's, as shown by my 45.76rwhp dyno charts.
Ray
I have found some things that really work with these V's, as shown by my 45.76rwhp dyno charts.
Ray
#49
Thanks for postin up them sheets ray, yeterday was went on a rally in chester,good
time it was, had a few good drag races between the 650 and 660(both with 27in
mudzillas on stock rims)the 650 will pull the 660 from a dead stop through the powerband
and on a long stretch the 650 will pull the 660------(formerly novakawie)
time it was, had a few good drag races between the 650 and 660(both with 27in
mudzillas on stock rims)the 650 will pull the 660 from a dead stop through the powerband
and on a long stretch the 650 will pull the 660------(formerly novakawie)
#50
No problem KFX650, LOL
Did you mean the 660 will pull the 650 in a long run?
With your clutch setup the 660 should run about 110-112kph and the 650 should run out of gear at 102-104kph (but we'll fix that!!!)
PS: How much do you like the engine brake on the 650?
Ray[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
Did you mean the 660 will pull the 650 in a long run?
With your clutch setup the 660 should run about 110-112kph and the 650 should run out of gear at 102-104kph (but we'll fix that!!!)
PS: How much do you like the engine brake on the 650?
Ray[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
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