im useing the 10-40 amsoil .use amsoil in all of my toys love the stuff .question why are u guys running the 0-40 intead of 10-40m ?

 

AlaskaBayouGuy,

They used a machine that put a ball bearing under a weighed load against a rotating shaft. The ball bearing was coated in the oil that was tested and then loaded against the shaft with three weights (I don't remember the how much they weighed) and the shaft was spun up (I don't remember the RPM) If the bearing didn't seize, it was shut down in a a few minutes and the bearing was removed and checked. The Mobil 1 show the highest amount of wear (actual flat spot on the ball bearing) and was one of the few that actually seized. Royal Purple and Amsoil didn't seize, as well as showed the least wear on the bearing. When the Royal Purple was tested, it was put under four weights and still did not show significant damage to the bearing.

We have selected vehicles from our fleet of 40,000 as test units. They are run through five tanks of fuel on their existing oil, recording their mileage. Next an oil sample is sent for evaluation and the syn. oil is put in. They run five tanks of fuel on the Syn. for mileage and run until they are due for their oil change. At that change, the syn. oil is sent out to the lab for eval.

We're still in the test, but have seen a fuel savings from the Royal Purple. Since we spend millions of dollars in fuel a month, even a 1% improvement means quite a bit of cash savings for us.

Not much of a Kawi post, but hopefully helpful.

Peace,
Sgt_Rock

 

Was the oil tested at normal operating temp. as it would be in an engine??

 

The temp was strickly the result of the friction between the bearing and the shaft.

An oil should perform well cold as well as at the top of the heat range for it's weight. Start up of a cold motor is a limited lubrication and limited temp. situation that can cause more wear and damage than the engine running with the oil pressure and temp. up. An oil that can provide good lubrication during the time it takes the oil pressure to come up will reduce the wear on the motor.

Obviously the oil needs to perform well at operating temps, but most do. It's during start up and heavy load that the good oil shows through.

Peace,
Sgt_Rock

 

Sarge what weight and Viscosity Royal Purple are ya'll using and is it specifically for 4 strokes or cars as well. Thanks for the help.

 

I still belive in the ole hot plate skillet get er up to 375 to 400 degree pour some on there and see whos smokein first, if you got a conventional oil better be ready to chuck it out the door skillet and all. On the other spectrum cold engine starts are harder on parts than anything! tests Ive documented put mobil one on top for reaching the furthest point in the engine the fastest @ -25 degree and less smoke at 400 degree in the fore mentioned , I add a little lucas oil treatment in the summer to my mobile 10-40 and that takes care of the barrier problem that some say exists, there is some stuff the sprint car guys swear by called E.R. (energy release) they absolutly swear by it, I have not tryed it my self but I will, They say if you spill it on the floor there is no way to get it all off ! and you will bust your butt if you step on it for 3 months! and people who grind crankshafts recognize it right away, cause they say it clogs the stone and you got to dress it more! it starts sqealing and acting real strange (not grinding) as should because it soaks into the pours of the metal, I think theres a lot of good product out there but it all needs changed time to time. JH

 

I also swear by Mobil 1. My wifes minivan blew an intake gasket and antifreeze began to pour into the intake and eventually into the oil pan. She told me one day it was gettin hot, so I
go and take a look at the coolant and oil and I have milk all the way up the dipstick. i had checked the oil 2 days before and she said it began getting hot that previous day. the entire crankcase was filled with this oil coolant mixture, and I estimate she drove around 300 miles, in 105*F texas heat, with no lasting problems to the engine. the mechanic went through the engine, and basically flushed it , replaced the gasket, and said it was absolutely good. We drove that van 4700 miles, towing around 4000 pounds in mountains from texas to alaska, and are still driving it today with no problems at all. I know this is due to the Mobil 1. For my money, I will never use another oil in anything i drive. My 2 cents.....

 

Amsoil 10-40 in the engine, Amsoil AHT in the rear end...meets all the same specs as Kawachem, MobilFluid 424, and the recommended Citgo lubricant for "wet brake" gear boxes.
kliff

 

I too have an 04 Twin Peaks 700 with 200 miles now... (absolutely love it) I switched to mobil 1 synthetic 10w-30, as this is an oil viscosity that is also recommended in the owners manual. The reason a 10W-40 is the most recommended is that it covers a wider range of operating temperatures (specifically high ambient temperatures). However, since the Kawi's don't need wet clutch lubrication, an automotive 10W-30 synthetic is just fine, and as a synthetic it will not break down at higher temps. You should be able to use this oil all year round, no matter what the temperature without a worry, and easier winter starts.

 

0W-40 Amsoil in my Mojave and 400ex.
5W-30 in the three cars.