Not really but got your attention!!--For the first time in months my gas tank cover and gas tank bolts are in semi permanently because I see no need in getting into my carb again in the near future. I have had carb apart so many times changing jets and shims that I wore all the screws out and had to replace them with allen heads. FINAL PROGNOSIS: Bike is running perfect and very strong. Best performance with any size jets or settings is achieved with stock snorkel and lid on airbox closed. My top speed at the top of my test track is almost 34 mph (I think that improving my midrange performance is boosting bike faster which in turn has increased my mph at top of my hill)
Main Jet = 150
Pilot Jet = 38
Needle Shims = .060
I also have a twin air filter, a modified muffler (Nyroc sorta of) and a degree key.
The biggest improvement is in my midrange and that definitely came from shimming the needle jet.
Any questions or advice I can offer anyone on my mods I will gladly help out--I would suggest what I did to any 360 out there---I know I am happy with mine. I am still looking forward to trying a holeshot module in the near future.

 

MOSES... I should be testing the modules at the drag strip this weekend... once done, I'll send you one, to try on your 360...

 

Looking forward to it Newbeatle---

 

Land speed record, HAHAHAHA, but i can smoke my friends foreman. Looks like i will be the next to go with your setup OMM, if i can only figure out how to do all that stuff to the carb.

 

Hey Lowestaco

you wanna give me a call after 9 pm (free cell phone time) I would be happy to walk you through what i did---But I gotta say, independtantly, none of my mods seemed to make a whole lotta improvement---until I started messing with the main jet and the needle shims----at first I kept trying to richen up the main jets, even tried dial a jets, and top end didnt improve until I leaned the main jet out. After i started shimming the needle (actually very easy mod, and this was my first time ever shimming needles) I started noticing mid range improvement. I was on bike again last night and commented to my wife that every ride beats the he** out of my quad because I run it so hard and it is running so good.

I think If I was you, I would start with the needle shims. If you want, I will send you some brass washers I used for shims and wil also mic them for you if you dont know how. I also would recommend a speedometer so you can guage when you are running best (I know mine helped me a lot, because you wont really get any major improvements, but all the little ones add up)and the only way you will no if its better or worse is with some type of gauge

let me know

 

OMM
thanks for the offer to help maybe i can get with you this weekend or maybe next week i think i can find some washers at work, maybe, and we have a dial caliper so i can get the size. what sixe does the washer need to be, center hole, ? do i need to take the tank off to get to the carb? i just have a few questions like what altitude are u riding at and what temps? i already have a speedo so that's no prob. i just gotta put front pads on cauz they are tost from riding in the mud I'll definately get with u on the install when i can go ride to test, i live in a cluster neighborhood, they don't like me, HAHAHA.

 

Hey lowestaco

yea you halfta take the tank off---pain in the but, but its gotta come off--first remove two phillips head screws on plastic tank cover up by your handlebars---then take off seat and remove two 10mm I think bolts that hold cover and tank on--take off gas cap and remove plastic cover---Now the hard part--turn fuel petcock to off and with a phillips screwdriver take off plastic **** before trying to remove tank---make sure it is in off position before removing!--Then reach in with your hand and carefully pull fuel line off of carbureator---you do not need to mess with the little spring clamp on fuel line, i have pulled mine off 50 times and reinstalled and it has never leaked, although I did install a cheap fuel line filter on this hose. Then pull gas tank back toward seat about 1 inch and physically twist tank to the left and it will be a struggle but after the first time it is easy. you will see the needle cover on top of carb with 4 screws holding down---be very careful removing screw so as not to drop them---Remove your cover and carefully pull the spring out, this is the spring i cut and had to replace, i thought maybe shortening it would improve performance but ir didnt. There will be a plastic peice down in the carb that the spring rests on, look at it carefully so you know which way it goes back in. You may have to work the edges of the rubber diaphram a little the first time in order to pull it out---be careful, but it is pretty durable and I had mine in and out a lotta times. pull slide outta carb (dont worry cause it will only go back in 1 way) and turn slide upside down and needle should fall out. When reinstalling, put slide in carb first, then slide your shims onto the needle and carefully put needle down into slide and make sure needle slides down all the way(sometimes if not straight needle will bind and not seat---never force it! than insert plastic cap the right way followed by spring and screw the cap on. I didnt install any gas tank screws or plastic cover for about 3 weeks until I was satisfied carb was correct. It is OK to test without gas tank bolted down cause your seat will help hold tank in place for testing.
PM me your address and I will put in mail for you tomorrow enough shims to last you a lifetime--as long as you have a mic--you can work shims with a flat file and mic to any size you wish---I would start at .060 and work my way smaller

 

OMM

I am interested in doing some of these mods but have a couple of questions. Did you change the main and pilot jets I dont know what stock is. also on the shims where can I get some of these. on the muffler mod did you make the outlet hole bigger I am in the process of doing this mod. any help would be appreciated

 

OMM
ok i got the tank off and the carb appar, but one thing i forgot to check which way the plastic part was in, hope i can figure it out. i put it together and it ran fine, i didn't want dirt to get in there. i took the plug out and it was black so i think like u i need to lean out my jets. maybe u can recomend some sizes and how to install them. at home i ride around 1050 and we do some mountian riding from 2500 to 5000. well here is my update hope u can give me some advice

 

Hey Lows---your learning---just like I did
The plastic thing on the spring is actually pretty ez to install correctly---just look at it and you will see where the spring slides onto it and stops--
The main jets are inside the float bowl---I took of the hose clamp holding carb to engine and the hose clamp holding air cleaner snorkel to carb and turned carb upside down to remove jets---I did not remove any wires or choke cable or throttle cable---left them all hooked up---just be careful not to drop any of the small float bowl screws---they are a bear to find---If I was you---I would seriously consider the dyno jet kit--they are professionals and do their testing on a dyno---which is alot more accurate then the way i did it----if not, I would suggest to you to find a good hill---start at the same spot every time---and document your top speed at top of hill after every run--I was not doing this at first and I lost track of what was working and what was not---Before playing with the main jet---I would try needle shims first---start at .060 and then keep going smaller--although the needle shims did not effect my top speed to much---just gave me better mid range----i will try to get brass shims in the mail to you before monday