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need some clutch advice badly!!

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Old Nov 4, 2005 | 02:10 PM
  #11  
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you guys are awesome---i really appreciate the responses--they got me thinkin---It is definitely not my kebc because i took it off completely---i pulled the cover and blew the dust out and checked the belt, with 2700 miles the belt is still in spec---i am leaning toward flat spots on the springs??? I am going to pull the clutch cover off of the primary tonight and see what is in there---does anyone know if i will experience any difficulty putting the cover back on???
 
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Old Nov 4, 2005 | 02:49 PM
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Pulling the cover and putting it back on is a piece of cake. Just make sure you put it back on the same way it came off(there are aligning pins to make sure).
 
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Old Nov 4, 2005 | 06:34 PM
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thanx masterblster---i meant to say flat spots on the weights---it could also be the outer clutch binding on the sleeve, or maybe the spring is not pushing out hard enough to disengage---i only took a short ride with the cover off and i did not notice anything--i figured it must have been dirty---i am going to pull the cover off this evening to see what i can see
 
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Old Nov 4, 2005 | 07:53 PM
  #14  
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pulled the cover off of the clutch and I found one of the rollers for the weights has scuffing and grooves in it--I am pretty sure this is the prob---that comet clutch is looking pretty inviting---can anyone tell me how to get the rest of the clutch off the crank???? it looks like its threaded on??
 
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Old Nov 4, 2005 | 10:23 PM
  #15  
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OK Kaw boys--anyone on this site with a prairie take notes as you will probably have this same problem--the weights inside the primary clutch have bushings inside of them--the bushings wear out and you start experiencing clutch problems--my bushings or sleaves were all worn oval, and this is why my clutch wasnt releasing at idle--i pressed all the sleaves out and reinstalled backwards as a temporary fix--I also greased them with lithium before reinstalling them--not sure if you can buy just the bushings or not--i was told you have to buy the entire weight--I went out for a ride tonight and the clutch was working perfectly--I started noticing a couple of weeks ago that my clutch was hitting a little hard off of idle but i didnt do anything about it--before i spend over $100 to fix this clutch, i think i will spend $300 and get the comet clutch

Hey Thescout!!! how is that comet clutch??? did you notice much of a difference?? any better top speed??
 
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Old Nov 5, 2005 | 09:43 AM
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oleman,,the main and basically only difference i have noticed is that it runs very smoothly and have not had any belt slippage since installing..now , on the installation of the comet clutch: i had to grind off a little bit of the new clutch fins on the inside of the clutch..it was only maybe 1/8th of an inch. and i understand that only "some" 360's have a clearance issue. you can tell what im talking about if you buy the clutch and while sliding it on it doesnt go all the way..one or two of the rear "fins" on the new clutch "bump" (ed) on mine anyway, so we just grinded it some. took about 2 minutes to do that...
http://www.mfgsupply.com/ATVCometClu...on_id=BTDqx4Gh ,,, go to this address and see the clutch if you havent allready....it is the 219118a and the pink spring and (3) 215400a1 cams...good luck
 
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Old Nov 5, 2005 | 09:54 AM
  #17  
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as a follow up...you may not need to see this diagram,, but if you do go here
http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/405_05...00&parent=1560 and here for the main menue

http://www.ronayers.com/fiche/frames...00&parent=1560 ... to simplify it go to this one and select which diagram u want to look at.......
 
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Old Nov 6, 2005 | 06:00 AM
  #18  
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Default need some clutch advice badly!!

thanx thescout---my problem is the sleeves or bushings in the weights are all worn oval--one is extra bad and started wearing into the roller (dont worry guys who have no idea what we are talking about here--when you do take yours apart, all these words will make sense) I punched all the sleeves out on friday night and reinstalled them backwards, with the oval facing the opposite way and my clutch worked perfectly---i took it apart again last night and went to my buddies who is a machinist, i hate bugging him but i wanna cry when my bike is not running, and he determined these bushings suck, they are not a true bushing but a split ring!!! If you ever take yours apart you will see what i mean about the bushing--he is going to make me up some real bushings and also get me some military spec graphite to put on them to lube---I will let you know what happens

I love beating Kawi at their own game that is why i get so determined to fix all their mistakes--I am also still working on the manual 4 wheel drive actuator--the one i put on mine almost a year ago has been working flawlessly and i do want to make this project work --hopefully before Christmas
 
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Old Nov 6, 2005 | 06:04 PM
  #19  
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I hear ya oleman. The bushings in my primary clutch went and I decided there is no way I was gonna replace them with the stock crap that is in there. I had my machinist buddy build me a set out of oillite bronze. I shimmed my wear shoes with some little buttons of .006" brass shimstock to tighten up the tolerance on the shoes. Put the whole thing back together and she runs better than factory. With the oillite in there, I doubt I'll ever have to change them again.
 
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Old Nov 7, 2005 | 08:43 AM
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MOSES... give a call to VFORCEJOHN on the kawi forum, he remachines them, & has all the fixit parts on hand... he'll turn it around in one day, & can also resurface the sheaves as well... & can even give you an improved sheeve angle... I highly recommend him... let me know if you need any more info...[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-wink.gif[/img]
 
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