Hello all, new here great site and useful info so far....but I need a little help/insight.......i am having a problem with my recently aquired winch......it was working fine all day and when I went to rewrap the cable i pushed the in button and nothing, not a noise or anything.....push the out button, cable starts pulling in......(scrathes head) I went over all connections and they seem tight and dirt free???? any ideas would be appreciated...... i wanna use my plow tommorow...help!!!

 

Wow--your question is so easy to diagnose, but real hard to try and explain[img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img]

If you have the rocker switch mounted to the handlebar , this rocker just sends voltage to the solenoid, which determines which way the winch goes, in or out---First thing I would do if I were you is to go and buy a cheap electric multimeter or 12 volt test light---Find your winch solenoid and start testing for voltage at different spots---if you are not electrically inclined, ask someone who is, because it is probly an EZ fix

Not sure if I answered your question or not, but I am sure someone knowledgable will add to this---dont be afraid to try an figure it out yourself--They are pretty basic

regards
OleManMoses

 

Old Man Moses I don't know if you remember me but I rode with you at Blue **** on the August 04 ride ( Green 360). But I was wondering did the mike penland flywheel key help. Also what did you do to modify it?
Strings

2004 Kawasaki 360 Prairie
Moose Hand Guards
Full skid Plates
Shock Wears
Mud-Lites

Coming soon:
EPI Clutch Kit
HMF Exhaust
K&N Power Kit

 

The rocker switch itself could be the problem. Use a testlight or votlmeter to test the switch first.

 

Hey Strings--I think i do remember you--was that the day it rained really hard??? I think you were with your dad?? HOW YA DOIN----The key definitely helped, because I took it out and put the stock key back in and noticed a definite loss of power---Before I put the Penland key back in, I took a flat file to it and took off even more metal (more advance) but i dont think that helped at all, cause now I have a little bit of valve ping on a hard pull---I switched to mid grade gas recently and the ping went away but the mid grade gas didnt give me any more power---I would suggest an advance key if you dont mind ripping into the engine---not a hard job but you will need a flywheel puller--didnt make a nite and day difference but helped a little--I had to replace my clutch recently and I bought an aftermarket comet clutch--the primary spring is not correct in it and I am going to learn how to tune these clutches in---someone once said they thought there was some performance to be gained in the 360 through the clutches, and I am going to try and figure them out

Another tip for you Strings---Dont get the hmf slip on pipe---Our 360's seem to need back pressure to run correctly--I recently brazed a washer onto the back of my 2.75" modified tailpipe to increase pressure and I notice an increase in my low end---It seems the less backpressure we have lowers lowend response---and no matter which pipe you put on, it aint gonna go any faster--I have heard some complaints about the HMF being to loud and decreasing performance--so please reconsider this one--I do suggest the clutch kit and the jet kit --stay in touch

 

Ole Man Moses,
I checked Mike Penland's Web sight and could not find the fly wheel key. Thanks for telling me about the HMF exaust I would of Wasted 200+ dollars. I was the one with my dad on the blue **** ride when it rained. I have never been that cold in my life. Also is comet clutch worth the 300$ or should I just stick with the EPI kit. Hope to see you on some rides.
Strings
2004 Kawasaki 360 Prairie
Moose handguards
Full skid plates
Shock wears