Dynojetted 750 Brute last night!!!
#1
Dynojetted 750 Brute last night!!!
I had a deadspot off the start, and that low speed stutter. After the dynojet ( 1500' altitude 144 in front and 150 in the rear carb) it cured all my problems and then some. I learned you can't punch it off the start on pavement!!!! you will flip it. The throttle response is instant and crisp. My opinion would be that the dynojet kit is money well spent.
#3
Dynojetted 750 Brute last night!!!
I was very impressed! It almost scares you from a dead stop. I tried the almond secondary clutch spring also, but lost performance. I put the stock spring back in and sent the almond back! I'm gong to call Mike Penland in the morning to get his opinion on clutch springs.
#4
Dynojetted 750 Brute last night!!!
There is a thread on nyrocs web site where they compared all most all the primary springs. I haven't been to it in a long time but it is there and will proved you with some very good info. I run the red primary spring from epi. It has a higher stall than stock but nothing radical. It also has a very good shiftout rate which hepled my 100 yard drag time. I'm not saying it's for you but I have been very happy with it.
#5
Dynojetted 750 Brute last night!!!
I am just slightly lower elevation than you, had a 152 front and 158 rear stock.
I took mine to 158 in the front, 165 rear and finally got it right. I also added a snorkle to mine at the same time.
I am running rich, but I was so lean it ran really really hot and overheated, no more problems.
Also, it was a pain to rejet, but glad I did
I took mine to 158 in the front, 165 rear and finally got it right. I also added a snorkle to mine at the same time.
I am running rich, but I was so lean it ran really really hot and overheated, no more problems.
Also, it was a pain to rejet, but glad I did
#6
Dynojetted 750 Brute last night!!!
Originally posted by: blawhorn
I am just slightly lower elevation than you, had a 152 front and 158 rear stock.
I took mine to 158 in the front, 165 rear and finally got it right. I also added a snorkle to mine at the same time.
I am running rich, but I was so lean it ran really really hot and overheated, no more problems.
Also, it was a pain to rejet, but glad I did
I am just slightly lower elevation than you, had a 152 front and 158 rear stock.
I took mine to 158 in the front, 165 rear and finally got it right. I also added a snorkle to mine at the same time.
I am running rich, but I was so lean it ran really really hot and overheated, no more problems.
Also, it was a pain to rejet, but glad I did
The dynojet's #'s are different than stock! Mine also had a 152 front and 158 rear stock. The Dynojets flow better than stock jets and are numbered different. The 144 front and 150 rear are larger jets than the ones I took out. With the kit you drill a hole in your slides and change the needles out with new ones which have clips on them to adjust.
#7
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#8
Dynojetted 750 Brute last night!!!
Okay, I'm really going to show my ignorance/inexperience here [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-blush.gif[/img], but exactly how hard IS it to install the Dynojet kit? I assume you have to remove some plastic to do this, but do you also have to remove the carburetors to do this installation? I have the kit already. I'm pretty mechanically inclined, but just haven't messed with carburetion much. Thanks!
#9
Dynojetted 750 Brute last night!!!
farginicehole, It is easier than you think. It takes longer to remove the plastic than to do the actual jetting. You dont need to totaly remove the carbs. You can move them around enough with the throttle cables still intact to get the job done. If you have any ?'s you can PM me and I can give you my phone number, or just give me yours. Good luck.
#10
Dynojetted 750 Brute last night!!!
blawhorn, I have done my muffler on my 750. I don't know if it has helped much if any, it does sound a little louder but not much. I cut the end off with a band saw (metal band saw) then drill 6 1/2 holes through all the baffles, you need an 18" or longer drill bit. Don't remove the packing it will whistle and won't sound good then you will have to do it all over again (learn from my mistake). I then welded the end cap back on and some high heat paint, good to go.
I think that the sparke arrestor in the tip is the biggest restrictor, but I didn't want to punch that out incase it was to loud. I have a picture of it but I don't know how to post pictures on this forum.
I think that the sparke arrestor in the tip is the biggest restrictor, but I didn't want to punch that out incase it was to loud. I have a picture of it but I don't know how to post pictures on this forum.