Sorry to hear you're having bad luck with your 750. If you're ready to give up, let me be the first to offer you $3000 for it! [img]i/expressions/face-icon-small-happy.gif[/img] But seriously though, hope you can get the little annoyances worked out - I think you'll love it once you get everything in order.

 

farginicehole,

thanks for the confidence boost. you WOULD think it would have alot more power then the 650, but as of now, i'm not impressed. hope it gets better. by the way, i like your your name

 

That stutter at takeoff was relatively common on the '05 Brutes. If that dealer doesn't know that, I don't know waht to tell you. It was not a difficult fix from what I read on here. I had Prairies only, so no personal experience.

I believe it's any easy fix, and then you got quite a machine there. Would be better with a VDI copperhead cdi in it. See one of the world's longest threads on nyroc's forum regarding the VDI igniter.

The wet brake thing I hadn't heard before.

 

I know it sucks to have to start modding a new quad just to get it to run right, but a lot of people swear that the Dynojet kits make a world of difference and get the BF750 running a lot better than the dealer did even after the needle fix TSB (which shouldn't apply to your '06 anyways). The kits are pretty cheap on E-bay - I bought one months ago but always seem to be too busy to install it. Besides, even though I'm pretty sure it'll run better after I finally install it, my stock '05 Brute pretty much flies. For my own safety, I need to put some radials and wheel spacers on it before I make it too much faster (insert the Vonage theme song here).

 

Rammy,

I also just bought a 06 BF750. I notice it sometimes lags on take off, but mine wheelies very easily. Dont know if it matters, but Im about 6' tall and about 260lbs. I just give a slight tug on the bars and the front comes up nice and easy. I havent really riden mine too hard yet, so I havent put the brakes through the paces. I love this machine.........I hope you have better luck with yours.

Chris

 

thanks chris, i stopped at the shop where its at this morning and they had that thing all tore down. they said that they were going to "clean" the carbs and that might be the problem but how is that so when it is brand new and i only put 10 hrs on it so far??? i have got mine to wheelie on two separate ocasions,but that was all and it wasnt nothing major!

 

Do you have aluminum skid plates? The reason I ask concerns your brake problem. When I put my aluminum skid plates on there was some flexibility as to their mounting position on the front a-arms. Initially I had then mounted too close to the wheels. Some times I would turn a certain way or compress the suspension a certain way and the skid plates would hit the brake slave cylinders and push them a bit compressing the piston a bit. Then when I went to hit the brakes the lever would almost bottom. If I let off once and hit it again the brakes would be fine....the piston was pumped back out....
Just needed to loosen the skid plate mounts and move them a little so they never hit the slave cylinders.....
As far as your missing problem, unless you live like 3-4000 feet or more higher (or lower) than the dealer where they set it up it should be running fine. Check the idle screw settings, you will likely have to buy a special tool that is like a long 90 degree flexible screwdriver to adjust them though. They are only about $20 and you'll probably use it now and then. If you ever plan on doing any engine mods at all, you'll need it...
Another thing to check is to make sure you're carb boots are properly installed and not torn in any way. This can be very very hard to see and will likely require you to remove the carbs from the motor to be 100% sure. Mine tore from the inside first making it very hard to see from the outside. The Brutes have been known to have problems with the engine mounts coming loose. Since the air box is mounted to the frame, and the engine is supposed to be mounted to the frame, if one of these comes loose it will allow the engine to move around with the air box firmly bolted down which promptly tears the rubber carb boots. Usually this happens with the boots going between the carbs and the engine, but I suppose it could happen with the boots between the carbs and the air box too.
The aluminum intake ports where the carb to cylinder boots attach also tend to have a very sharp outer edge from the factory which aids in tearing your carb boots. If you have to take it apart and replace your boots, slightly round this edge just a bit to take the sharpness out of it (don't get anything inside the port).
I also suggest removing and loctiting all of your engine mount bolts. Never re-use the nylon locking nuts, and keep in mind that these are metric nuts and bolts and some of the thread pitches are not easily found at the average local hardware store...
All of these things have happened to me personally and once I fixed them they have not happened again...