Thanks for explaining that to me Brute 23. There is a dealer on Ebay that has all four Mudlites in 26-10 and 26-12-12 for 290.00 and 25 bucks shipping. That seems like a pretty good deal. I will get that and the 1.5" spacers and I should be good to go. I need some clearance any way I can get it as the guys I ride with all run Artic Cats and have much more clearance that I do on my SRA Brute. You just do not see any Brutes out here at all. It is kind of neat as I get challenged quite a bit to race. So far, bone stock, I have easily beaten an AC500 and a Polaris 500. I narrowly beat a brand new Kingquad. Haven't lost yet, but then again haven't faced a Bomb 800 or a Brute 750 out there yet. LOL

 

Put the Dyna CDI, K&N Filter, and Dalton Blue/Orange or EPI Pink Primary and you will be in business. These three parts are easy to install and you will not have to rejet with any of them.

Dyna CDI---$220----@ Dynaonline.com-----3min to install
EPI Pink-----$18-----@ Local dealer----------10min to install
K&N Filter---$55-----@ B-C Offroad.com-----3min to install

 

well i don't think that the mud lite is worth a crap if you want to stay lite get a swamp lite and don't be scared to go big i run 28" mudzillas on my brute 750 and my brother has a 650 brute he run 27in mudzillas and he still spank polaris and ac and honda (of course ) and pretty much any thing else. so live a little GO BIG !!!!!!!!!!

 

Mud-Lites are some of the lightest, if not "the lightest", tires on the market in their group with off-road capabilities.

 

Why wouldn't it switch to 4x4 I would think you would be able to it would just take awhile to shift maybe .

 

Hah?

 

Are you sure your on the right thread, or am I missing something? LOL!

 

LOL! I didn't know quite where AK47 man was coming from.

To be succint here, I posted this topic to let new Brute owners to make sure they are in 4wd BEFORE they are stuck in deep mud. After I got stuck, the machine would not go in to 4wd once the wheels started spinning.

 

Brute 23, tell me more about the Primary's!

 

Well I am no expert, but I can tell you what I think I know. It added more of a mid-range pull. I reall like it, and for $18 its hard to beat. It takes about 15min to install; very easy. I was told that for my BF650, with 25' or 26' tires, with no major mods, for trail riding and general "cutting-up" my best bet would be with an EPI Pink primary or Dalton Blue/Orange.

Here is an awesome site that has compared all the springs and gives their stall and shift out #s. Primary Spring Table

If you don't know the basics. STALL is how many RPMS the engine will rev to before actually taking off. By doing this it allows a bike to get into its power band before takin goff. This is good for drag racers or sled pullers, tollerable by most trail riders, and a big NO-NO for rock or hill climbers.

The SHIFT OUT is exactly as it says. The point at wich the bike will shift out. Mud Boggers and sled pullers(maybe) like the bikes to shift out real late so that they can be sure to stay in their power bands. People who race with alot of mods on their bikes and little resistance, such as big tires or several thousand pound sleds, may want to shif tout quicker because they have the power to do so. They are trying to reach thier top speed as quickly as possible.

After adding the Dyna and filter I feel like I am hanging in the gears too long. I am going to try a spring with a little more stall and a quicker shift out such as the Dalton Blue or the Polaris White. That is just a theory though, I am going to run with my Pink right now and probably time it, then put the Dalton Blue in and time it, and so on, and so on. The only for sure way to do it is by timing and seat of the pants, unless you have access to a dyno.

Sorry for the lengthy response. What bike do you have? Do you have any mods? I reccomend going to these sites and reading up as much as possible. You can search through the old articles and find some good info.
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