Hey alexcue, I too found me and the machines limitations at the most inappropriate time. I got very confident riding mt 2001 sp 500 h.o. Was rarely ever concerned about a trail I was on. With the BF though, I'm afraid my confidence isnt what it used to be. I notice it more on off camber down hill rocky slopes. I feel like it is always going to end "o" on me. I have put the itp C series on as well as inch and a half wheel spacers. Its plenty wide now but I believe that the suspension is the problem more so than the tires. I'm running 25" bear claws which are heavy but the BF has the power to spin em. I think that the stock springs are not of the progressive rate type. To me the machine almost feels like it has two solid axles. I'am always finding myself lifting one of the tires off the ground which tells me that there isnt enough suspension travel from the stock shocks. A progressive rate spring with a matched shock should make a big difference however, the 1500 or 2000 bucks that aftermarket shocks cost are something that has to be considred. In my opinion, (here it comes), the BF is a great mudding machine and some guys are drag racing them with pretty good results but, as far as a rough technical terrain machine.... well, Maybe not the best choice. Any way tires do make a big diff. You wont be dissappointed with what ever you choose my friend. Just be careful and dont push you or the machine.

 

Heratic!!! Burn him with fire!!!! j/k

 

$1500-$2000 for a Aftermarket Suspension upgrade is not the case.
Try the Basic set-up 1st @ $800 with the WORKS Steeler dual rate ATs. Even the Basic G-series WORKS are a option here.
If you go w/the Basic Steeler ATs, then at a later time you can have the other two options added on, like the preload adjusters & (or) the remote res'es if you feel you need them or more Monies$$$ come available. (The Res'es are not required for the Preload adjusters)
I 1st went with the Basic Steeler Dual-rate ATs set-up then after a yrs riding I sent the WORKS Shocks back & had both the preloads and Res'es added on.
Total for all 4 of my WORKS was $1225 w/the preloads/res'es.
Worth it?
You bet, I can ride as fast as I want & the WORKS Suspension will take the beating, I can corner with no-body-roll, powerslide with ease, jump stuff that I could never do with the Stock Shocks and the ride is smoother too. With the preload adjusters I can now set-up the fronts different to the rear, my Frts are set a bit more stiffer for my faster type of riding that I like to do plus the handling is outstanding.
Wasn't sure if I needed the res'es But now that I have them, I'm glad I got them too. The res'es come into play when you really push the Brute on a hard fast all-days ride, the WORKS Shocks work all day & they take the beating, where you don't.
Along with the ITP Wheels/radial tires & the WORKS Shocks, I have a "0" tippiness feeling.

 

Alexcue,

Don't miss a cheap/quick change that really helps. There are some postings on changing the rear swaybar bushings to poly. They are available at Autozone for $15-20, and it only takes about 20 min to change.

Sorry, don't have time to find the original posting but I think it was on the nyroc site. It gives the size/part #.

Not sure how much this will help with technical riding, but it really helps a bunch with cornering and the unstable feel. I changed mine, even with stock tires it is much easier to slide, etc.

Hope it helps!

 

guzzler2, might be a nice additional fix i can do. I'll do a search on it at NYROC, thanks.

Now, another related question, as I've researched the tires, I've come across a problem. The tires i want are only available in 12x7. I was interested in the 14x7 size, but they aren't available wider. Am i better off getting the 12" vs the 14"rim?

BTW, the tires i want are the Mudlite XTR's

 

When you go crashing in to rocks at high speed you would be better off with a 12" wheel with a higher profile tire than with a 14" wheel with a lower profile tire. The tire also works as part of the shock absorption process so for off road riding you'd be better off with the 12" versus the 14" wheel. Now if all you were doing is running fast on smoother ground, then the 14" wheel would be better since you'd have a lower profile tire with less side to side flex...

 

Everyone I have talked to says Elkas and wheels and radials. Anyone who has that set-up loves it and says it makes all the difference and says it makes the BF handle the way it should have from the factory.

I know what you are talking about with the tippy-ness. It just isn't confidence inspiring when you get the BF on off camber trails even with radials and wheels. That and the ride is harsh and uncomfortable compared with everything else. With good shocks like the elka units though it can be made to handle fine they say.

Such a shame too with that great v-twin. I love that motor and the other bits and pieces on the BF but the handling just wrecks it for me. Had one sitting in my garage for weeks to test out and just didn't enjoy taking out in the trails. Loved it on the flat roads though.

 

I don't know why everyone thinks the brute is tippy. I just put 50 miles on mine this weekend so far and I was tossing it around like nothing, Going on some of camber stuff just to try to get to tip over going slow and it was only slightly worse than my v-force.

I will say that it does feels like it going to tip way before it actually will and that is what everyone feels. And yes the stock tires make it feel even worse because they flex so much.


The brute is one fast 4x4, in a drag with my v-force it will beat it. It don't feel faster but it is.

 

I think you're exactly right bout it being perhaps being more about feel. I think that is more due to the fact that the suspension simple doesn't work as it should. If you get off of it and have someone ride it over some uneven terrain and watch the arms and suspension you can see that it simply doesn't flex and “work” like it should. It just sort of bobbles and skitters over the terrain which I believe leads to the tippy feelings and of course leads to the crappy handling and abysmal ride. This is what those elkas fix so dramatically from all reports. I tossed a bunch, and I mean a BUNCH of weight on the racks (sandbags and quickrete) along with my big butt on the BF I had here and that helped the suspension move a bit more but it really didn't solve anything because it could only move it one way – down.

Bottom line is that the suspension needs work. Kawasaki has the makings of a GREAT quad there but they are just wrecking it with that atrocious suspension. Can't their engineers go buy a set of elkas or works shocks, put them on and see what a world of difference it makes? Come on, it's not rocket science. This has been a problem with the BF since day one. Fix the suspension and slap an EFI unit on the thing and you would have that kawi eating everyone's lunches.

 

there's some great stuff here guys, trully appreciate it. It makes my initial "evaluation" seem plausible.

Well looks like tires/wheels first then, good shocks second. Would prefer Works, since they're local, are they the quite a step down from the Elka's?